Won't start

[mjr45]

Thanx Zed, I have a bad tendency to throw parts at it until the problem is solved instead of taking the methodical approach. That being said, since I've been doing this restore project, I figured replacing a lot of mechanical parts wouldn't hurt. After pulling the old starter a couple of times and inspecting it I was either going to replace or rebuild. I think part of treason for not running is that the AFM was plugged into the harness but not connected to the TB, so, I've read that the fuel pump requires a signal from the flapper in the AFM to keep pressure up in the system after the initial start. Thank you for all your responses to mine and others questions, your knowledge on these cars has been a huge help on this project.

[grantf]

Wow! the AFM was not hooked up? that would definitely cause your car to not run. most everything involving the fuel delivery is based on readings from the afm. even a split in the afm to TB boot will cause the car to run poorly. Do you have all of the systems put back in order? all vacuum lines electrical conections to sensors ect.?

[mjr45]

Yup, I checked all the connections today and can't find anything, on the AFM I was having a major brain fart, but that still wouldn't account for starting circuit, at least I don't think it would.

[mjr45]

I've been trying to solve the problem by checking all the connections and doing some electrical testing. The car has 2 fusible links on the right side firewall, I can voltage with the ignition switch on, but no continuity. The other issues are no fuel to the rail, good pressure up to the rail, no compression in #4, other cyl are all low doing a cold check, I pulled the valve cover, but can't really tell if its just a stuck valve on #4, after the "explosion" the other day the #4 plug was broken, I've felt inside with the piston at TDC and can't really feel any holes or metal chunks, but suspect I'll have to pull the head to really check. Any suggestions.

[Zed Head]

That's a lot more information than in your previous posts. If you had a stuck valve on #4, you should be able to wiggle the rocker arm up and down on the stuck valve a lot more than the others, when the cam lobe is pointing up. The valve lash will be very loose. Or, if you've tried to adjust the valves, the lash might be too tight, holding the valve open. I think that I've also read of the lash pads coming loose and jamming the valve open. Compare how # 4 looks and feels to the one right next to it. With the plugs out, you might be able to spin the engine with your starter jumper and watch what the valves do. Some oil might spray though so have some rags handy.

No fuel to the rail and good pressure up to the rail doesn't really make sense. Fuel provides the pressure so you can't have pressure without fuel.

This is kind of unintelligible also - "I can voltage with the ignition switch on, but no continuity". Not sure what that means.

I would spend more time looking at the valves and rocker arms on #4, and then squirting some oil in to the cylinders and re-running the compression test. If it's rings oil will add some sealing and pressure will rise. If not, it might be a valve or something else.

If the intake valve was stuck open, you might get a big backfire, pressuring the crankcase and blowing your dipstick out. That much pressure might have also damaged your AFM, unless the backfire happened while it was disconnected. Maybe you got lucky on that one. Which part of the #4 spark plug was broken? That doesn't sound good either.

Taking the head off is a whole new set of problems. Your engine might end up looking like the car in your avatar.

[mjr45]

What it read is "I can get voltage...." at the fusible links. Luckily the AFM was not connected at the time. I will keep looking at the valve train, but so far I haven't seen any loose lash pads or anything real obvious, the valves were adjusted prior to putting the engine back in so I will recheck that and keep looking. The car in my avatar is the one I'm working on, .

[mjr45]

OK, I've checked battery voltage (11.98v, its not fully charged) checked voltage at the exciter wire which was 11.86v with ignition switch on and also on start, checked/cleaned my battery cables and connections, the starter will spin when jumped, but using the ignition switch I get nothing from the starter, no click, no spin. I do hear a solenoid click in the interior but thats all. Any clues as whats next.