No rust! Now what?

[Britt Boyette]

I will be buying some of the POR system supplies for doing my cowl area and under the battery tray. I haven't found a local supplier in my area yet so I might have to mail order it. Does anyone know of a place in the Portland, OR area that carries it?

[2ManyZs]

Britt, if you can't get it locally, you can order it right off their web-site. They've got secure ordering and they do ship it fast. I got my order in two days, but then, I'm a bit closer to them than you'all.

One good thing about ordering direct is you can choose from all their products, not just a select few that a local shop might carry..

[dohc]

Thanks for the link BambiKiller, has anyone had any experience with these?

They look pretty good though....

Cheers,

Ross.

[Bambikiller240]

Britt:

Here's a link to the West Coast Distributor for POR Products. They carry EVERYTHING (or so they tell me). Price was the same as the factory store website quoted when I bought in August of this past year. Shipping should be quicker and maybe cheaper than from NJ. They should also be able to tell you who, if anyone, carries the products (and which products they stock) in your area.

http://www.thefinishedlook.com/main.htm

AIR, the POR15 itself has go UPS GROUND, and cannot go 2nd Day Air. That was mentioned on the Factory website. I believe that is due to the chemical make up of the product.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by dohc

......has anyone had any experience with these?

They look pretty good though....

Cheers,

Ross.

Hi Ross:

I did the complete POR15 treatment on the driver-side floorpan of my 72 240Z in September 02, I did not spray the product, I used brushes and followed the POR Distributor/Factory application instructions for that method to the letter. I'm very pleased with the result, though it has only been a few months. The POR is as tough as they claim. I've been able to peel it off a few places where it got on painted portions of the trans tunnel (by accident) that I did not treat, but it seems to be very well attached to the properly treated bare metal floorpans. I treated both the inside and underside of the floorpan.

PS My Driver Door weatherseal still leaks (that's how the rust got started) and I routinely find about 1/4 inch of water in the underseat area after a full day's rain. but there has NOT been any sign AT ALL of rust recurrance. So I am a happy camper! Soon as we get some warmer/dryer days, (it always seems too cold or rainy on my days off!) I'll install the weatherseals I bought myself for Xmas!

[beandip]

Custom product sales 3115 Crocker Rd. Eugene, Or 97404 541-345-8092 They carry the whole line of P O R 15 products. If you give them a call they will send you a catalog. As for the "tar " mats they are 12"X12" square and will stick in place . They are about 3/32 " thick and they really deaden the sound , real good inside the doors also. Like was mentioned berore escanlon has used both extencively on his '71 . The mats he bought at the parts store that is also an auto paint supply in Vancouver Wa.. I live in Beaverton, and I plan to buy my paint supplys from him, the guy knows what he is doing. escanlon is a member here and if you contact him you will find he is more than willing to help. All the best gary

[mperdue]

Or go this route for sound deadening: http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/bs_insulation/webtour-1/index.htm

I may try something like this. I like a quiet interior... If I wanna hear the engine I'll roll down the windows!

Michael

[Bambikiller240]

Hi Michael

The stuff that Ben used in those photo's appears similar to a home improvement type of Storm Proofing product that someone suggested was available at places like Home Depot. The only drawback to the product found at Home Depot (if it's the same or similar to what Ben used) was that it was only available in a 200 foot roll. Just "slightly" more than needed for two Z car floorpans! :cross-eye

That's not to say anything negative about Ben's idea, or the execution of it. His result is definitely fine looking and should be a model to us all of how to do this type of work.:classic:

Wish I could find a 50 ft roll stuff like that and then share it with 4 other Z owners doing this type of work!

[mperdue]

From my car audio days, I found the general opinion is that the stuff that's made for sound deadening in cars works the best. These are products like Dynamat and B-Quiet. These tend to be the most light weight with the best sound killing results. Other things will work. I tried the Hi-temp Mastic material from Mcmaster-Carr and it was pretty good, but it's really heavy and doesn't adhere as well as some others might. But it's relatively cheap.

I'll probably end up splurging and going with the real thing such as Dynamat, or something close to it anyway. That stuff costs big $$$!

michael

[beandip]

They have smaller size rolls at Home Depot, at least they do up here. I forget the size right off the top of my head, but there something like 16"or "18" X 8' . That is if I remember right . I picked some up for escanlon a while back you should ask him . I think they were about $9.00 a roll . I cant remember for sure . If you want I can get the numbers for you and they can order the stuff for you locally . One of the nice things is that it is closed cell foam in there just like what was pictured. I am pritty sure this is the way that I am going only I am going to use the tar-like stuff on the floor of the foot wells. I think the aluminum stuff will crush down after a while . The "tar matting " stuff inside the doors stops the " ringing drum " sound and adds just the right amount of weight so they close like a Rolls. I have also seen used the bed liner RINO LINER sprayed all over the floor , it seals everything and deadins the sound pritty well . If I went that way I would do like escanlon and por 15 whole inside first. Let me know if you need the scew # from Home Depot. Gary

[phi22b@ck]

So I noticed you wee asking how to remove the sound deadening.

I have done this in more than one car and have used a few different methods.

By far the _BEST_ way to get this stuff out of the car (IMHO) is to use dry ice -- use just enough to cover it, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then strike it (the now frozen sound deadening mat) with a chipping hammer and pick up the pieces. This will get you right down to the metal and leaves very little residue provided you get all ofteh small pieces too.

Then you can simply use your shop vac to sweep up all of the pieces.

Oh -- be sure to wear safety glasses.

[mperdue]

Xylene is great for removing the residue. Someone mentioned acetone - not sure which one is worse or better for your hands or lungs!