No rust! Now what?

[beandip]

At present , I have started stripping out all the interior and dash, need to cure some electrical gremlens also, and the plan is to get the car ready for paint in the early summer. I have a bid to have the engine bay and the whole interior and with the front fenders off , have the rolling shell sand blasted , $100.00 . I am pulling the engine any way to make way for my 280zx engine. Thats the plan . So far I was able to get most all the major tar matting off like phu22 said , with it cold and chipping it off. Only I dident use ice it was just cold in the garage. At the time of the sand blasting is when the floor repair will be done . Hopefully by then the top and the rest of the car will be stright and we can start reassembly. Thats the plan, good loard willing and the creek dont rise ! and my wife keeps the HONEY DOOOO LIST short.

[derk]

You're right...that isn't metal. I'll be damned. Guess my weekend is cut out for me.

Thanks---again--- for helping the newbie.

I ordered my POR-15 from POR-15 of Texas. Same prices as the POR-15 site (www.por15.com) but free shipping if you spend $100 or more.

I used www.por-texas.com

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by derk

You're right...that isn't metal. I'll be damned. Guess my weekend is cut out for me.

Thanks---again--- for helping the newbie.

We are all glad to help "newbie's"! No use you having to learn by mistakes that have already been made by others.

As for removing the mat, It really isn't (or wasn't for me) that difficult. I think I spent about 45 minutes to an hour on the drivers side. TOTAL! Get a hair dryer an hold it in one hand, probably on the low heat setting, then with a putty knife in the other hand you just start scraping it up in sections. Mine was amazingly easy and not messy at all. There were tiny bits of it left in some places, but that wiped off with acetone very quickly.

Use good quality vinyl gloves as much as possible to protect your hands throughout the entire POR process! And don't breathe it any more than necessary.

As for the POR process, remember to follow their directions to the letter. I'm not sure how cold the outside air temps are at this time of year where you live, but the POR Co. does not recommend application of the products in weather below 75 degrees F. The time consuming part was using the "Marine Clean", then thoroughly washing it off and drying the metal completely, before application of the "Metal Ready", rinsing that off and THOROUGHLY drying everything. THEN applying the POR15 which takes about 4 hours (@ 75+ degrees!) to dry to the "tack" stage where I applied their "Chassis Black" Topcoat. I had to do the treatment process over two days in September here in San Francisco Bay Area in order to have the ambient air temp where it needed to be for the whole application/drying time.

Of course, you may have a heated garage, and the temperature difficulty that I had would not apply for you.

To get the tarmat off and to remove the undercoat off of the underside of the car it took me 1 day. Two days to apply the complete POR treatment to the inside of the car, and another two days to apply it to the underside. I don't work real fast, but I do things as correctly as I can, since I HATE doing things like this over again, or not gaining the full benefit of the product.

I beleive that once done, you will be happy with the results. Let us all know how you progress!

Carl

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by mperdue

From my car audio days, I found the general opinion is that the stuff that's made for sound deadening in cars works the best. These are products like Dynamat and B-Quiet. These tend to be the most light weight with the best sound killing results. (snipped by Carl)

I'll probably end up splurging and going with the real thing such as Dynamat, or something close to it anyway. That stuff costs big $$$!

Hi Michael:

I did a search on Eastwood's website and found "Quiet Pads" made by Dynamat. They are 12" by 12", and I think I'll use that for the floor and probably something with closed cell foam and maybe a reflective metal side for the trans tunnel, and inside the doors.

[EScanlon]

They're available as Q-Pads and they're made by Evercoat. I used these to replace the tar pads that came on the car.

Several notes:

As far as removing the old, if you already have some rust underneath, the old pads will probably just lift off very easily and quickly just using a putty knife. They will probably be old and brittle so just push and lift and they should snap off cleanly. If they are still pliable, that's when I would use the dry ice method. As far as using the heat gun or hair drier, I think you would probably generate more work by allowing them to re-adhere. Remember they are TAR and they will melt and flow and re-stick everywhere. I did the old putty knife method and removed the old ones everywhere, including the hatch area.

After removing them, I used the Marine Clean and Metal Ready products before I coated with POR black. After the POR dried, I applied the Q-pads over all of the metal areas leaving no surface exposed, even inside the rear fenders. The final result is that the car is exceptionately quieter.

As far as the bubble cell aluminum insulator, I did get some through Beandip, but I admit that I have not used it at all. I was able to pull up the horsehair from my transmission tunnel and just reused that. I also covered the transmission tunnel with POR and the Q-pads for sound insulation and the thermal insulation is by the jutte.

FWIW

Enrique Scanlon

[Bambikiller240]

escanlon posted:

...........As far as using the heat gun or hair drier, I think you would probably generate more work by allowing them to re-adhere. Remember they are TAR and they will melt and flow and re-stick everywhere.

Hi Enrique:

I just used the heat gun to begin to soften the mat, no melting ever occured, as I never let that much heat be applied. The mats probably never got warmer than (maybe) 120-130 degrees, tops. It just peeled up ever so easily. I was done in under an hour for one floorpan, including the minimal clean-up required. Also, since I already had a heat gun in my shop, the price was right!

I'm sure dry ice works also, but it would have it's own drawbacks as well. Careful handling is required, cost, availability (at least where I live) and CO2 build up in a confined workspace would be concerns of mine.

DIFFERENT STROKES FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS! As long as the stuff gets removed, it's on to the next step!

[derk]

Okay, Carl and those with experience... how much POR15 product did you need to do the entire inside floor of the Z? I'll start stripping the rest of the interior out this week. Would like to have enough on hand before I start the messy work.

I have a garage, but not all that heated. I'd guess it's about 55 in there most of the time although it is 20 outside.

I'll have to see how the directions go.

[Bambikiller240]

Hi derk:

The pot life (working time) of the POR is very short, so I chose to purchase their "6-pak" of 6 - 4oz cans of POR15. I applied two coats to the inside and two to the underside of ONE floorpan. I still have 1 - 4oz can left. I used 1 - 12oz can of the Chassis Coat Black and it was plenty to do the inside and the underside.

I probably applied both a little thicker than they suggest, but I wanted to make sure I had everything covered well.

I'll let others with more experience chime in here about the temperature requirements, but I don't think 55 is warm enough to do this. Dry time at 55 will be VERY long! You may also want to consult the distributor that you purchased from. My distributor in CA was very willing to answer questions and was very knowedgable. They want you to do it right, so you'll be happy with the result and recommend the process to others.