Rear Wheel Cylinders

[Brubaker]

In my ongoing tear down of supension and brakes, the rear cylinders were no fun. I have never come across such rusted corroded cylinders. The brake pipe was rusted in solid and after a few days of pb blaster would not move. I resorted to the dual vice grip approach since I bought some pipe to bend and am replacing all parts.

I imagine all my braking was being handled by the front after seeing this:

[Captain Obvious]

Yummmmmmmmy! You're not thinking you're going to rebuild those puppies, are you?

[FastWoman]

Don't forget to take apart the emergency brake mechanism, clean it up, and get all the parts to move freely. Mine was rusted solid, apparently from nonuse. (I always park my car in gear with the e-brake off.) Strangely, my e-brakes acutally worked in this state, but not as well as they work now.

[Reverend]

JeeZ! I thought my cylinders were bad but after seeing yours.... Get a new ones! Rockauto supplies them with reasonable prices.

[Brubaker]

I may rebuild them but for now I have new ones that are going on purchased from Rock Auto actually. The old ones are stamped Tokico and Japan 7/8. Anyone know if that may make them original? Hard to believe in 34 years they were never touched but they look it. This is going to take a little time as I am also replacing the bearings, struts, springs, spindle pins, bushings and powder coating the parts like I did for the front.

[Captain Obvious]

As long as the aluminum of the cylinder itself isn't pitted. The pistons came with a corrosion resistant coating of some type, and yours is obviously gone. I believe you can get new pistons, but once you pay for that, you might as well just have replaced the whole thing.

So you're going in after this AND spindle pins? Now there's a thankless job!