zdude1967 Posted November 12, 2011 Share #1 Posted November 12, 2011 I did a compression test on my recently rebuilt 260z engine. It has about 1500 miles on it. On the dry test with the carb fully open and the coil wire off I get the following results # 1 thru #5 came in at about 72 lbs but the # 6 came it at around 90lbs On the wet test all came in at 90 lbs including the # 6. I am rather new to this and this is the first time I have done a compression test, so my questions are- why would the # 6 not change from a dry to wet test. The warranty expires next week on this engine and I wanted to do this test prior to the warranty expiring.Is this something to be concerned about?Thnakszdude1967 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280z Posted November 12, 2011 Share #2 Posted November 12, 2011 they all seem low... here are a few "gottchas" that get most first timers (including me):did you remove all 6 plugs before startingdid you open throttle valve for each testdid you crank engine over a few times for each testis your battery strong enough to crank the sameis the test gauge calibrated or cross-calibratedare the valves seating well (check valve lash) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter Moore Posted November 13, 2011 Share #3 Posted November 13, 2011 I recently discovered that my ancient compression test gauge is off by something like 25% low. You might have a similar problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 13, 2011 Share #4 Posted November 13, 2011 (edited) Was the "dry" test on a recently run, warmed up engine? That's what you want. You might have been too dry and too cold.If you used the long open tube adapter that comes with some gauges, that will drop the numbers. The adapter adds its volume to the combustion chamber, resulting in lower pressure. I had some 180s drop to about 120, with the adapter (if I recall correctly, I've posted the numbers in the past). Edited November 13, 2011 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdude1967 Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share #5 Posted November 13, 2011 I did the test cold with a tool that I rented from Checker Auto. If the numbers I took were real I would guess the engine would run like sh*t,correct? The car runs well. In any case I will have to try it again. How long should I run it before I do the test, just ubtil normal operating temp?Thankszdude1967 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastWoman Posted November 14, 2011 Share #6 Posted November 14, 2011 I have an old Chrysler Marine 318 that measures about 95 psi compression on all 8 cylinders, using the same compression gauge that measures my Z at 180. The 318 runs fine, except for an exhaust riser that I can't seem to get to seal correctly against the head. It might be a combination of low compression and a bad gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted November 14, 2011 Share #7 Posted November 14, 2011 Check the cam timing. Late timing will lower the compression evenly on all cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdude1967 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share #8 Posted November 16, 2011 Well at this point the warranty has expired....so the hell with it. I am just going to drive and enjoy it. It may be best for me to stop opening pandoras box as what is inside always sucks.zdude1967 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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