did i bend a valve? and why is this happening?

[justaZcarguy]

Have you tried heater hose Zed? I cram a hard screw driver handle inbetween the chains and hope for the best, and the last time I did it, I was late on the push with the screw driver and have yet to figure out weather the spring is out or not. That's the current problem with the '74 and you have read the post on the charging problem with the '73.(if not save yourself, run!)

Whoa is me, it's been a bad week for JustaZcarguy.

But 'nuff 'bout me.

Zedrally is right about making sure the tensioner does not slip or you will end up pulling of the front of the motor. (like I most likely will....)

Good luck, at least better luck than I have had...

Let us know sir....

Brian

[Zedrally]

I can't take the credit for the heater hose idea, it came from the 240z list some time ago.

Simple as it seems, it actually works and holds the tensioner in place!

[clutchdust]

see, now this is why i like learning from other peoples mistakes. i had no idea about a tensioner. where do i need to jam a piece of hose? is this something in an archive folder? maybe i can just read up on someone else's step-by-step experience with this.

[peterc]

Another way to prevent the tensioner from moving is to thread a section of antenna (the skinny hard steel ones that come on new cars) through the chain BEFORE you remove the cam sprocket. Choose the links, on both sides that are closest/just under the top of the head

The antenna is small and flexible enough to easily thread through the chain links without damaging them and strong enough to hold the tensioner in place. The cam sprocket will then just slide right off.

Be sure to line up the timing mark on the cam with the bright link on the chain beforehand

Peter

[clutchdust]

o.k., i think i can come up with a suitable antenna. so your saying to make sure i mark the timing and then slip the antenna through the chain as close to the block as possible? sorry, i haven't looked at it is about two weeks so my memory is kind of fuzzy as to it's configuration. please expand.

[peterc]

Clutch

Yep thats exactly it. If you want to be extra safe, shove a length of heater hose (about 12" long) between the chains going down into the block. I've used a common plastic tent peg (those triangular ones) which work just as well as the hose). Tie a piece of strong wire to it so you can fish it back out.

The tensioner is at the bottom of the left (facing the engine from the front) chain guide.

The timing chain has one bright (brassy color) link. Slowly rotate the engine by hand until this link lines up with the timing mark on the cam sprocket.

If you haven't already, DEFINITELY go buy a Haynes manual for the z. I think I paid around $20 CDN so you'll probably get yours much cheaper. You should be able to get one at most any parts supplier.

It will walk you through anything you'll ever do, including a complete teardown/rebuild. Lots of pictures and easy to follow.

Good luck

Peter

[clutchdust]

thanks for the tip. i'm going to see if i can get some time to work on it this weekend.

i already have a haynes manual for it but i might go find a newer version since mine is written in the 'wrong' english. the thing talks about gudgeon pins and earths like i know what that means!

i'm glad you guys mentioned it because i never even gave it a thought. i would have just pulled that bolt off the front of the cam sprocket and most likely watched in horror as the chain snapped down into the block. anything else i should watch for?

[Zedrally]

No, thats all.

As much as I shouldn't say this, but....you can expect to drop the chain first time around. I hope I'm wrong, just to be sure pick up a spare set of timing cover gaskets and it's a sure bet they won't come in use!

Also, if you get a chance take some photos of the damage and post to this tread.

Good luck.