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popping through the exhaust at 4500 rpm or so.. HELP!


Zedyone_kenobi

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.......at this point it is too difficult to review all 15 pages to see if this has been tested but have you put in all new spark plugs to see if that could have the fix you are looking for. I got my Z out today - had a little stumble going on - changed the plugs and running and gunning great now.................just a thought.

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UPDATE:

I performed several vacuum related tests yesterday. More data, for those who are still with me.

I Tee'ed into my manifold vacuum near the power brake tap. Warmed up I am solid steady at 17 in. I fiddled with the timing a bit so that may be why I am off from the 19 or 20 I had last time. When I drove the car, I saw nothing unusual with the vacuum readings as I moved along. Very steady all of the time, and responding to my inputs form the throttle as you would expect. When the popping happened, the vacuum was steady and the needle did not jump around.

So I pulled it into the garage and sprayed carb cleaner around the gaskets, and no change was noticed in RPM

Lastly I moved the SM needles flush with the groove in the bottom of the piston (although I know the FSM says otherwise) This make the car super rich at idle and it really struggled to hold a 500 rpm idle with so much fuel going through her. But the problem still happened.

the LAST THING TO try with the carbs is to weigh down the pistons more so it is harder for them to rise as suggested before.

I may try to hook up my GoPro camera under the hood with a flash light to see what the pistons are doing if I get sporty.

I truly think my car is not getting the fuel it needs. THis is the reason: I got her up to 5000 rpm and she was popping like mad. I held her there at 5000 rpm still popping and with the ARF at the mid to high 16's. I yanked down the choke all the way this time and she went to 12.5 and took off. THat would seem to indicate that the needles are NOT rising ENOUGH!

I have a sneaky suspicion that this is a far more mechanical issue than just carbs. But I am about ready to crush this problem with my wallet and a phone call to Datsun Spirit!!!!

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This tells me that the needle profile is not correct for your engine. I'd try different needles. If the piston rises more, you will make the mixture leaner because of a diminished vacuum signal. Run a little experiment with stock needles, placing the shoulder at varying heights and recording what happens.

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Lastly I moved the SM needles flush with the groove in the bottom of the piston (although I know the FSM says otherwise) This make the car super rich at idle and it really struggled to hold a 500 rpm idle with so much fuel going through her. But the problem still happened.

I would think that with the needles moved flush with the bottom of the piston that you would correspondingly return the seats to just two turns. As your needle shoulders were beyond the base of the piston, your seats were corresponding lower, 3.5 turns out if I remember correctly? These move hand in hand to provide the correct fuel ratio at idle.

the LAST THING TO try with the carbs is to weigh down the pistons more so it is harder for them to rise as suggested before.

This seems to be the opposite of what you really want to do.

I truly think my car is not getting the fuel it needs. THis is the reason: I got her up to 5000 rpm and she was popping like mad. I held her there at 5000 rpm still popping and with the ARF at the mid to high 16's. I yanked down the choke all the way this time and she went to 12.5 and took off. THat would seem to indicate that the needles are NOT rising ENOUGH!

Given this last bit of information, you do not have a fuel delivery problem; you have a fuel ratio problem. I will propose the KD needles once again. As you can see in the pic, they allow more fuel at the higher RPM's, more than the SM's which don't seem to be doing the trick. KD needles would be a pretty cheap item to check.

Best of luck,

Rich

PS: This is easily my favorite thread on this site.

post-19125-14150818123284_thumb.jpg

Edited by motorman7
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Adding weight to the suction pistons should enrich the mixture. It may seem counter-intuitive, but it should enrich the because the velocity through the venturi will be higher, providing a stronger vacuum signal to pull more fuel despite have a slightly smaller opening between the jet and needle. SU offers different stiffness springs for the suction piston for this same purpose. The mixture will be affected at all throttle openings except idle when the pistons all the way down. It seems that this has become somewhat unnecessary now as Zedyone has accomplished the same thing by pulling the choke out while driving.

I agree that the KD needle could solve the problem. The stock needles could be modified as an alternate. The trick will be determining the correct point on the needle to reduce the diameter, and by how much.

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Adding weight to the suction pistons should enrich the mixture. It may seem counter-intuitive, but it should enrich the because the velocity through the venturi will be higher, providing a stronger vacuum signal to pull more fuel despite have a slightly smaller opening between the jet and needle.

That statement helps a lot. Was trying to figure out Leon's statement (which is your same point) and this clarifies it.

Thanks! (such the educational thread :))

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I am willing to try the KD NEEDLES but where on earth would you get them?

Another question is if SM needles are rich enough to feed an L28 why on earth can't my baby L24 get enough gas

As with most complex systems with many variables it may just be a tolerance build up. Maybe not.

Motorman it is good to here you enjoy this thread. I often wonder if people get tired of me and this problem.

I will look for some KD needles

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I tried to find stiffer SU springs

Ztherapy said there is only 1 spring used for the Z

He did not have any to sell me.

I was on the hunt for springs but found none. Mine look like cad plated springs, so I have no idea what they are.

I would order a complete set of springs if I knew where to order

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