76 280Z fuel delivery issues

[Zed Head]

Ignition modules seem to fail in many different ways. I just gave my example for reference. As Blue suggested, if the tachometer needle drops dead while the engine is still turning, that's a sign of electrical failure. If it was fuel related the tachometer would still show RPM, since it gets its signal from the coil, even though the engine wasn't producing power. So next time it dies, watch the tach needle, either right away while it's still in gear and you're rolling, or while you're trying to restart it.

I think that the only port in to the fuel tank, besides the filler hose, is on the side of the tank, not the top, although there might be an access panel from inside the car. There's a picture in the FE section of the FSM, but no description of an access panel.

[bhermes]

Got it. Going for a drive to check. Do you feel that both issues, rust from tank possibly clogging the tank screen or causing other problem, or bad ignition module, would allow the car to start 15-20 minutes after failing?

Regardless off for a ride.

Added note: When I replaced the fuel filter one side of the fuel coming out of the filter was brown and the other clear.

Also, typically when the car fails I can keep runing for about 1 mile as it spits and sputters before completely failing. Not sure this infoarmation really adds anyhting.

[bhermes]

Appologize for my ignorence; however, where is the ignition module located, what does it look like, and is it easy to replace.

Anyone have a photo.

Depending on the cost I may replace.

[siteunseen]

You can do what was recommended to me. Run a fuel pressure gauge off a "T" after the OE fuel filter with about 5ft. of hose. Zip-tie it to your drivers wiper blade then go for a ride. Take a pad and pencil, write down the pressure and then clean out your gas tank.

[Lucas Rodgers]

I know this is an old thread but solely for the purpose of people who actually search as I do, I want to add what my problem was and how it was fixed. Like the OP my car would start and run and then randomly sputter and die. It would start and then sputter and die, over and over again on random occasions it would stay running for a short trip but then the whole process would start over again.

To make a long story short, the fuel pump would only activate when the starter was on. As soon as it was left in the on position the fuel pump would turn off, hence the sputtering and dying part. The cause of this was the contact in the Air Flow Meter. When the key is in the ON position the fuel pump will only stay running if there is air moving through the Air Flow Meter. A safety thing.

I felt it was right to post on this thread because this is the thread that helped me solve my problem and hopefully this can help somebody else.

I also wana post A link that I found that helped with everything http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

Edited August 29, 2012 by Lucas Rodgers

[siteunseen]

That's something to remember because it hasn't happened on mine YET. Thanks for the post.