New Cam wiped lobe...not happy :/

[Co0kieduster]

Put a fresh reground cam in a few months ago due to a wiped lobe. Got fresh lash pads, resurfaced rockers, fresh oiler bar (that I cleaned), new oil with zinc to break it in. Checked it after 100 miles and was fine, check it again today after 700 miles and the intake lobe on #1 cylinder is wiped bad. :mad:

It almost looks like the lobe was hitting the the rocker pad in different places instead of wiping across it. The intake was set at .08 when i installed and its now a .14 .... i don't know if thats enough to cause the strange wipe pattern.

Im thinking the valve was stuck open. This could also explain the trouble i had getting home from charlotte. and of course 200 miles babying the car home with a stuck open valve sounds like it would ruin things pretty quick.

I was thinking it was my carbs, seemed like it was flooding due to a float bowl problem.

Pics below.

What are my options?

Regrind the cam again?

Would I have to pull the head off to find out if my valve is stinking or bent?

[5thhorsemann]

Looks like it got pretty hot, I would go for a new cam or if there is a valve issue, a complete head if I could find one. Ouch!

[Co0kieduster]

The only pieces that look like they got hot were the rocker and that one lobe. How could a valve just suddenly stick open? is that even possible? Thats the only way I can see the jagged wipe pattern on the rocker and the lobe happening.

Anyone have a decent head they want to get rid of?

[5thhorsemann]

I can't believe you didn't hear this going on, it had to make a lot of racket. There's no going back with that cam. I don't know much about regrinding cams, but it almost looks like the cam lost it's temper and gauled up with the rocker, once the rocker lost it's temper the soft metals just ate each other up. I'm not saying the cam grinder is at fault, but I'd go that bet before a stuck valve. I do believe that you need to heat treat the cam after you grind it to reestablish the correct hardness

[Diseazd]

Was the number 1 lobe the one that wiped before? Looks like lack of oil. Did you put a new oil bar or use the old one?

[Co0kieduster]

No, this time it was the #1 intake. last time was the #6 intake and exhaust, due to the oiler bar being broken. I did put on another oiler bar that I cleaned for hours with carb cleaner and pb blaster. All the holes were spraying when I was done. However I just checked it and sur enough the hole fo that lobe was plugged.

So lack of oil I guess. I thought It sounded a little tappety, but not much more than normal. I was under the impession that I could reset the lash and check everything within 1000 miles and not have to worry about it being destroyed already :/

I think i'd like to get an internally oiled cam, this oiler bar seems completely unreliable.

[Diseazd]

Sorry old boy.....A new cam,a new rocker and a new oiler bar. Not too expensive! Easier to do with the head off.

[LeonV]

Or, you can get a brand new billet oil bar.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102501-spray-bar-mia/

[ozconnection]

No, this time it was the #1 intake. last time was the #6 intake and exhaust, due to the oiler bar being broken. I did put on another oiler bar that I cleaned for hours with carb cleaner and pb blaster. All the holes were spraying when I was done. However I just checked it and sur enough the hole fo that lobe was plugged.

So lack of oil I guess. I thought It sounded a little tappety, but not much more than normal. I was under the impession that I could reset the lash and check everything within 1000 miles and not have to worry about it being destroyed already :/

I think i'd like to get an internally oiled cam, this oiler bar seems completely unreliable.

I hate the spray bar oiling setup. Somewhere I've read it's superior......superior to what? Superior to internally oiled? Hardly when cam lobes get wiped with the darn thing falling to pieces because of engine vibration. People say the rod bolts are the weak link in the L engine....I think this one is just as weak.

I've never had any issues with the internally oiled camshaft. That's always been reliable.

[Co0kieduster]

There's a used F cam on ebay fo sale. Is that an internally oiled cam? And, just to be sure, it would be grindable right?

[Co0kieduster]

Ok, Maybe that was a dumb question. I'm still a newb in the engine building world. I'm going to assume its internally oiled and grindable. thought maybe having the holes on the lobes would cause issues with grinding.

Anyway, I would like some advice or opinions, I've been planning on doing an NA rebuild to get close to 200 whp. I don't have much of a budget so I am trying to piece it together slowly and still drive it.

Right now there is an e88 head with a 300f schneider cam available....its competition grade and I'm really tempted to buy it instead of getting a core and sending it for a regrind.

Good idea? Bad idea?

[madkaw]

The e-88 is a good head and has great potential. The 300f is a big cam and you will have to consider other problems like valve to head clearance.

I think all original Nissan cams are oiled via the spraybar, so if it's a Schneider cam, then it is internally oiled and probably made off of a virgin core