Finally clanked the clunk!!

[johnbell47]

This is a lot tougher than it should be, I have read a bazillion threads and I guess I did not realze what I was getting in to..First, new U joints on the half shafts, one was brinnelled and the bolts at the hub end were

loose, and I thought Ah haa..well nope did'nt fix it. Then I built a Ron Tyler mount....did'nt do it..then I tried the brand new bolts on the drive shaft that has nylock nuts,,,loose! what, also they were 5/16 SAE,

should've been 8 mm X 30's..replaced them...Nope!! then ordered moustache bar bushings and while I was waiting one them I crawled under the car with it in Low gear and yanked the wheels around..guess what!

The dang rear studs were loose on the rear diff mount...I replaced the bushings any way...Got it!!!! I know all of you have heard all of this before..Check it all...do it at one time and tighten the pooey out of

every nut and bolt..use locktite...heck use red locktite..your clunk can be clunked!!:classic:

[240260280z]

The so-called Ron Tyler mount is over rated and far too complex.

Easier Mounts:

The Blue Racing Mount:

Running stainless steel strap/banding under the differential neck (between the differential and the front mount) then wrapping it under the cross member and binding the strap there will do the trick and come in as the most lightweight and economical solution. Some correctly placed rubber and voila race ready strapping differential.

Here are two other variants I like:

[johnbell47]

Had I seen these before, I might have considered them. I did not. I did want to lower the nose of the diff in order to improve my drive shaft angles..I have a hybrid with a T-5.

[grantf]

Blue, Where were you before I put the RT mount in my car? but it was easy to install and it worked. I suppose I could have just thought about the diff movement before ordering it and gone the L stock route. Anyhow, what were they thinking with the strap, it was poo.

Edited December 9, 2011 by grantf

[jmortensen]

What's wrong with "easy to install and it worked"? I love the RT mount, which is so-called because "Ron Tyler" as he calls himself, drew it up and posted it online years ago.

The nice thing about it is it uses a very easy to find interlocking mount that will never fail to the point where it comes apart.

I also likeI'm sure there is a little weight to be saved, but that stock mount, especially the later ones, is pretty heavy. The RT is tough to beat for simplicity.

[240260280z]

What's wrong with "easy to install and it worked"? I love the RT mount, which is so-called because "Ron Tyler" as he calls himself, drew it up and posted it online years ago.

2 reasons why I do not like it:

Too big/complex.

Mr. RT lost my trust due to untruths and behaviour/actions.

Edited December 9, 2011 by Blue

[jmortensen]

It's not that big, and not complex at all. It installs simply and is a permanent fix.

Your experience with Ron has been exactly the opposite of mine. Ron and Paul too have bent over backwards to help me and my brother-in-law with machining work.

[Travel'n Man]

Blue-

The R/T mount rocks! Not a doubt - yours might be as good, but the R/T is tried and true by hundreds..................IMO.

With over 5900 views it's getting somebody's attention!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35995-Ron-Tyler-Differential-Mount&highlight=ron+tyler

[Zed Head]

Piling on:

If you use the RT-style mount with the Energy Suspension GM transmission mount, suspension work is super-easy. The differential will hang from the mount instead of sitting on the cross member. You can remove the Nissan front diff mount entirely. No need to support the diff to change bushing or stuts or springs. Just one more benefit.

I noticed when I was working on the clunk problem also, that if you strap the diff down too tight it can be drawn down on to the cross member, generating more diff whine and vibration in the cabin. In my case, the mount was so worn that it wasn't really holding the diff nose from moving up or down.