As you can see in the pic I am in a pickle ,any toughs ? How could i removed it now ? Hope somebody could help me

PB Blaster then vice grips

You meen the stud on the right? yes PB Blaster or Kano Kroil and let it soak for about an hour. or try heat.

I would use both penetrating fluid & heat. Let the fluid soak in some. Heat it with a propane torch, and hit it again with the penetrating fluid (non-flammable). Repeat the cycle a few times. Then attack with vice grips or left-handed drill bit if you have room.

NO NO NO vice grips!!! PB blaster, a couple doses and let it soak. Then get a nut to thread on along with a jamb nut, tighten the nuts against eachother and then heat the head around the stud and back the stud out using the inside nut (tightening against the jamb nut). Try not to heat the stud, it will expand against the head, you want to expand the aluminum head and loosen the thread interface. (apply the heat to the boss inside the port, you can see the boss in your picture)

If you cant get it that way then go with more distructive methods like the vice grips.

Edited December 28, 201113 yr by 5thhorsemann
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What 5thhorseman said. thread the nuts as far down the threads as you can, as close to the head as you can get them to help avoid breaking it again. Don't rush it. Take your time and let the PB blaster ( excellent stuff) work. Let us know how you made out.

I agree with 5th about the vice grips and the jam nut technique, but heating the stud does work. The technique is to hit it very selectively with a torch, get it pretty toasty, but not glowing, let it cool slightly, and then spritz with penetrating oil as it cools. The heat causes the stud to squirm and stretch in the cooler aluminum thread, fracturing the corrosion, and the hot oil quickly gets sucked into all the little cracks. You should let the stud cool completely before trying to turn it.

IMO you should never try to turn a stud in hot aluminum. The aluminum gets too soft. Just my opinion.

IMO you should never try to turn a stud in hot aluminum. The aluminum gets too soft. Just my opinion.

Fast Woman is right, "HOT" is a subjective term here. Hot to the touch is good, smokin a$$ hot is no good when you go to extract the stud. After applying the heat give it another shot of the blaster.

If you hit the stud on it's "head" it will sometimes loosen the stud. Then you can use the tool featured in the link I included to extract it. It's just another option I thought I would throw out there. Consider trying everything else before you heat the stud, the heat, if to much may make it very hard to drill if you do infact have to drill and re-tap.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Irwin-5-pcs-3-8-in-drive-Bolt-Grip-base-extractor-set-for-3-8-7-16-1-2-9-16-and-5-8-in-or-11-14-and-16-mm-bolts/_/N-25qe;jsessionid=3290D1D2F8C3F80DD359D2F456D334C6.diyprod2-b2c4?counter=3&itemIdentifier=486979_0_0_

If you hit the stud on it's "head" it will sometimes loosen the stud. Then you can use the tool featured in the link I included to extract it. It's just another option I thought I would throw out there. Consider trying everything else before you heat the stud, the heat, if to much may make it very hard to drill if you do infact have to drill and re-tap.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Irwin-5-pcs-3-8-in-drive-Bolt-Grip-base-extractor-set-for-3-8-7-16-1-2-9-16-and-5-8-in-or-11-14-and-16-mm-bolts/_/N-25qe;jsessionid=3290D1D2F8C3F80DD359D2F456D334C6.diyprod2-b2c4?counter=3&itemIdentifier=486979_0_0_

Those are more for stripped nuts and bolts, they will not work well on a stud, trust me I have a set of snap-on's just like them.

you're better off with something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66796/ But you will need the smaller version that is available thru Snap-On, at least that is where I got mine that works on 3/16 thru 5/16 studs.

There's plenty of thread left for the double-nuts. You can't beat that method if it's possible, you'll get enough grip to break the rest of the bolt right off.

Try all of the methods, none of them should make the broken piece more stuck. Put the nuts on before you tap on the top of the it though, before you damage the threads. Heat and cool the area around the stud several times while soaking it with PB Blaster. Try to twist it out but don't over-do it.

You might find that it comes out pretty easy, the top probably broke off because the bolt was stuck in the thermostat housing, not the head.

Thanks guys, as always you guys are expanding my mind to soak the knowledge I need to get out of the ."little problems" that we all - if I'm not wrong- have had experienced with the restoring process. I'll give it a try and let you guys know how it went, again thanks brotherZ and sisterZ