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[2012] What did you do to/with your S30 today?


Arne

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Can you tell us what method you used when you first started your engine during break in?

I had to look it up online. Here is what I did:

  1. double check everything before starting:

    1. water hose clamps very tight
    2. valve lash set
    3. plug wires correct
    4. yellow water temp wire connected at thermostat housing
    5. mechanical timing set correct at distributor
    6. carbs and linkage set correctly
    7. car in neutral and level
    8. ebrake on
    9. engine rotates by hand w/o valves hitting
    10. exhaust and manifold bolts torqued
    11. have all diagnostic tools connected and ready
      • O2 WB
      • Timing and RPM light
      • synchrometer
      • flat screwdriver for carbs
      • thermometers
      • fuel pressure gauge
    12. [*]I used a gerry-can at the front right tire with lines to/from fuel filter/rail and an inline squeeze-pump to prime the clacker pump.

      [*]prime oil pump (I forced oil via vinyl tube into opening where oil filter screws on)

      [*]pull plugs and remove hv cable at coil and crank motor until oil pressure gauge creeps up

      [*]verify fuel flow

      [*]FYI (you may also be able to set timing with just timing light and remote starter if you connect hv cable to coil and plug 1 to a gnd)

      [*]remove valve cover and verify oiling of all lobes

      [*]open heater valve in cabin

      [*]start engine then get busy

      • look at rmp (aim for 2000)
      • look at A/F ratio (aim for 13)
      • look at fuel pressure
      • set timing
      • look at bat voltage (it should be ~ 13.5to 14.5...if so then alternator and belt are OK)
      • look at temp (it will be higher during break-in...don't let it get too high)
      • ensure dash gauges are working
      • use candy thermometer and/or infrared thermometer to monitor water temp and compare against dash gauge
      • squeeze rad hoses (upper and lower) to ensure flow and temperature gradient
      • look for leaks (oil, water, gas)
      • listen for bad sounds

      [*]run it for 20min, blip throttle once in a while

      [*]stop engine then do hot valve lash

Edited by Blue
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Blue - you engine bay looks amazing! What did you do to the oil pressure switch wiring?

Not much. I used a ZX oil pressure switch with the analog output and also with the switch output (for a future electric pump safety control).

I used the typical corrugated plastic loom to protect the cable from the OP switch to the alternator. (I also used this to protect the harness between the lights to the horns and also when passing through the rad support openingl.

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Closing Snag List

- adjusted nose on master-vac push rod to better engage the master cylinder....brake pedal is much better

- took steering column plastic enclosure apart and addressed a broken wire on the turn indicator switch. Re-did all solder joints and better-fit the enclosure... now the interior is 100% complete!

- disassembled and refreshed turn indicator clicker and switching element

- installed triple Webers (was able to idle but the linkage to the cannon intake from the firewall did not fit... off to the machine shop tomorrow AM)

- just need to address tach problem with 280zx distributor (I think I will try to get a 280z tach).

Installed an alternator on a 2000 Maxima

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Last night , after the happy hour thing, went home, had some java. A fem give a call and I obey to her call, on the way there I did some spirited driving , RT 108 has some nice twistys . This morning I see a large pee spot and low on coolant, got a new radiator cap, back to normality ;)

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Found out I was way off about the fuel problem. Next time I'll look for sticking chokes. At least the bowls & valves are clean now.

A ton of carb cleaner and spray grease fixed the chokes. Might need a new nozzle when I get money. Learned some stuff, but a very long day. Why does debris sit on the bottom of the bowl instead of getting sucked down with the gas? Why was the front float so raked? Sorry no punch lines. I need a beer.

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I unboxed all of my suspension componenets I got fedex, cleaned up and swapped the air filters from the L28 laying on the floor to my other z, I'm ready to crawl underneath tomorrow and clean clean clean. I'm itching to get this turbo motor in.

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Got my 240z running again after an extensive fuel system rehab, new oil pan gasket, and header install. It only ran for about 5 seconds due to fuel pouring out of the intake of the carb. Leads me to believe I have some sort of float issue or too much fuel pressure. Oh well, it was nice to hear it roar back to life after 5 months.

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Took the entire front suspension, steering rack and crossmember off the 71 this weekend. I want to prep it for paint, I got new ball joints, rack boots, tie rod ends, rack bushing and wheel bearings ready to go in. Should look and work great. This coming weekend we plan to Lizard skin the interior. We will apply the heat shield and sound. Off to paint before the end of the month.

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Spent most of yesterday and half of today removing the dealer installed air conditioning system. It hadn't worked in 20 years, and when it did, it didn't work very well. The job is done except for finding some rubber discs to seal the holes in the firewall. Before and after photos give an idea of how much under dash and under hood space this took up. I now have easy access to the relays in the passenger footwell and moved the voltage regulator back to its original position. With all that room I took the time to insulate the fuel line from the filter to the mechanical pump. The entire fuel line from the filter to the flattop carbs is now insulated, and I'm hoping that will mean a little less vapor lock.

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