January 9, 201213 yr comment_376893 Well i have bad news, I got the motor in the car and running today but i cant seem to bring the timing to the 5 degree mark. Take a look at these and look where the tang points relative to the 6mm threaded hole: Looks like you may be a tooth off on the spindle to drive gear making it too retarded (ccw). Edited January 9, 201213 yr by Blue Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-376893 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 9, 201213 yr Author comment_376902 This is what I'm referring to supporting the cam tensioner. The attached file is a couple of pages from How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine.The wooden block is what your talking about in the rebuild guide?Take a look at these and look where the tang points relative to the 6mm threaded hole:Looks like you may be a tooth off on the spindle to drive gear making it too retarded (ccw).Yeah i may be off one tooth. Damn!!!! so does that mean i have to unbolt the oil pump and restab the spindle? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-376902 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 9, 201213 yr comment_376904 The wooden block is what your talking about in the rebuild guide?Yes, it is. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-376904 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 9, 201213 yr Author comment_376908 gotch yah. when i had the front cover off i just put the chain on with the cam and the crank shaft, then i put the tensioner on. So i didnt have to have any support to hold the tensioner from coming out. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-376908 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 9, 201213 yr comment_376934 You may want to purchase the book to give you some guidance, with one caveat: get your torque specs from the FSM. I seem to recall some of the torque specs being off in the book. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-376934 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 10, 201213 yr Author comment_377000 kool i got it figured out. have full adjustment within the timing marks range. works great now. just needed to rotate the distributor/oil pump shaft one tooth over. thanks for the help everyone!! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-377000 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 12, 20168 yr comment_502984 I know this is an old thread but.. I am having the same issue, Did you move it a tooth CW or CCW? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-502984 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 13, 20168 yr comment_503079 Somebody on this site has described a way to adjust the quill from the top. I think it might have been CO. Used some sort of rubber band assembly to hold the quill up from below, then just pushed it down against the rubber with a pair of long-nose pliers off of the gear and turned it to and fro util it came up in the right spot. The short answer is - re-insert and check, with the timing pointer on zero, and the #1 piston at TDC. Best to get everything set correctly, even the cam sprocket. You could also logic it out, knowing that the distributor turns counterclockwise. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41826-240z-distributor-help/?&page=2#findComment-503079 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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