Is The 280Z Fuel Injection a "Good" System?

[EuroDat]

Why this unit? Did it have a bigger throat or less flow resistance? It looks similar to the 280Z unit.

At least it is for the larger 3L engine.

I have seen it in one mod and read about it in forums. The AFM was slightly bigger allround and along with the 60mm throttle body gave him better flow. It is close to the original and all the electronica can easily be mounted on the cresseda unit.

He changed a lot on the engine and was a weekend racer (hobby). Like I said, there wasnt much left of the original intake system. The OEM EFI couldnt keep up with all the mods; cam, head work, headers and 2-1/2".

Chas

Edited January 11, 2013 by EuroDat

[TomoHawk]

I did aquick search on eBay for the Cressida AFM, and there was one unit (83-84) for sale that had a tubular design

http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-84-Toyota-Cressida-Air-Flow-Meter-/221004635492?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACressida&hash=item3374e71d64&vxp=mtr

But I don't know about how it functions (yet) so maybe some else can comment on it. The Cressida and Caney had similar designs- tubular. Using some custom electronics, I'm sure one could adapt even the hot-wire type of AFM to the resistance the L28 ECU requires.

Edited January 11, 2013 by TomoHawk

[John Coffey]

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_results.asp

[TomoHawk]

He doesn't have anything for the normally-aspirated L28 or 280Z

[John Coffey]

Its just not listed. If you call, he has a couple different options. I know two people running them in their ITS 280Zs.

[TomoHawk]

I thought by now there would be a popular "performance" replacement AFM for the L28e, like there is for most everything else.

[EuroDat]

Hey Tomohawk, I finally found where I read about it some time back now.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html

They are quoting a 34% increase in area and give step by step instruction on how to change the circuit board.

Chas

[TomoHawk]

Thanks Chas, I'll look into that.

I was also wondering how well the temperature sensor holds up after 40 years or use. The plastic cover itself yellows and who knows what is inside there.

[Captain Obvious]

and who knows what is inside there.

I suspect it contains the exact same RTD design as the water temp sensor. The curves are identical.

I bet it's the exact same guts repackaged differently mechanically. If you got desperate enough, you could probably physically modify a WTS and stuff it where the IAT sensor goes.

[TomoHawk]

Most likely, the water temperature sensor is a very slowly reacting one, compared to the one in the AFM.

[EuroDat]

Most likely, the water temperature sensor is a very slowly reacting one, compared to the one in the AFM.

They probably are the same internally, but the water temp sensor is made for the higher pressure and extreme conditions in the cooling system. The wall thickness slows the temp transfer. If you did this swap I wonder what the effect would be.

My system is standard (except resistor in temp sensor), but I would like to play around with it a bit. Not looking to go wild, but a mild increase would be nice.

I really like a system done by an old collegue. He used the cresseda AFM with a 60mm throttle body combination and replaced the runners in the inlet manifold to improve breathing.

Im thinking about the cresseda AFM, 60mm throttle body and maybe the turbo inlet manifold.

I have done a lot of reading about the 280Z EFI, but no one seems to play with them to much. Just keeping them running and fixing problems.

Dont want to go to MSII. It would probably take more time and energy to get it running right.

[FastWoman]

It's my understanding that a larger throttle body won't increase airflow, because the limiting factor of the intake manifold throat diameter still remains.

If you get desperate for a replacement air temp sensor, perhaps a coolant temp sensor's tip could be cut off with a tubing cutter, revealing a thermistor within? Then the thermistor could be snipped loose, have wires soldered to it, and encased in epoxy. A mold could be made by pressing the old air temp sensor into modeling clay and then using the mold for pouring the epoxy. It would be a good idea to use a good structural filler to keep the thing from cracking apart with age, as the debris would be gulped into the engine -- probably harmlessly, but who knows?