Block them off. You are correct, just SMOG ports that are not needed if the rest of your emmisiions crap is gone.

As for it idling high, turn the idle screws out enough and it'll basically die. Not sure why yours are idling so high, but bringing out the screws should definately lower the idle.

Looking at your photo again I noticed the control valve for the throttle opener is missing. You have it connected directly to manifold vacuum. This will activate the throttle opener all the time rather than only while coasting as is intended. This will cause a fast idle condition. For now, disconnect the vacuum line to the throttle opener and plug the vacuum port on the manifold.

Now I can't even get it to idle or start very good. if I hold the key down in the start position and keep it there it will run but as soon as I let go of the key it dies. Got it to run for about 5 sec then shutters and dies. The pump has constant power when the key it either in the start or on position. Adjusted the float bowls to spec, carbs are free of debris. I am getting full pressure out of the pump and around 3 psi out of the regulater. thinking maybe the timing is off or maybe a couple fouled plugs. Also I caught the throttle opener and disconnected that and pluged the Vacuum ports

Now I can't even get it to idle or start very good. if I hold the key down in the start position and keep it there it will run but as soon as I let go of the key it dies. Got it to run for about 5 sec then shutters and dies. The pump has constant power when the key it either in the start or on position. Adjusted the float bowls to spec, carbs are free of debris. I am getting full pressure out of the pump and around 3 psi out of the regulater. thinking maybe the timing is off or maybe a couple fouled plugs. Also I caught the throttle opener and disconnected that and pluged the Vacuum ports

This sounds like an electrical problem with the ignition. The ignition is not getting power when the key is in the RUN position. The START position has a bypass for the ballast resistor and is powering the igniton while you crank the engine. When you release the key back to the RUN position the engine dies because ther is no power to the ignition.

This could be due to a bad igniton switch, a bad ballast, or a bad connection in the wiring. If the gauges and other accessories are working the ingintion switch is probaly ok. Check the ballast resistor and the ignition wiring in that area first.

THANKS!! that was it... loose connection, after cleaning the connections up it fired right up and ran somewhat nice still will need to tune the carbs but she is up and running. I even took it for my very first short test drive Can not wait to get this car on the road. Also noticed that I am not getting coolant through the radiator. I'm gonna have the rad. flushed this week and take a look at the water pump.