Tranny won't go back in?!?

[Royce]

Howdy,

It's pretty much all been said, but how close are you getting the trans in??? Usually, things go good until the last inch or so. Sounds like you might be that close since you are considering the long bolt idea.

Once you get to this point it should just be a matter of fine tuning the alignment and getting the input shaft groves to match the clutch groves. Remember that the engine is supported by the trans mounts and will be saging toward the rear more than otherwise without the trans installed. Supporting the engine like Zmefly or 2manyZ is a great idea and will help you line up the trans but remember the trans will need to point slightly downward during install. If you are getting that close make sure the gearbox is in gear, then try to install, check your clearance top to bottom and side to side. If all gaps are equal than should just need to turn the trans output shaft a little.

I have had this problem when installing a trans and a better alternative to the long bolt technique is to take off the hood, remove the engine and install them together. I know you are looking for a quick solution but I would favor a good working solution to a fast gamble. Problem is if you pull the motor you will probably think of many other things you would like to do to it while it is out.

[beandip]

He said that the pilot bearing was loose when he was trying to install it into the crank. Just how loose was it ? Just because it would fit over the trans shaft before installation , I wonder if it is off center enough to cause the problem . He was asked by one of us if he was sure it was the correct one , it could be the wrong part. Mike had a good idea also to engage the trans in gear so the shaft dosent turn when fitting. I also have changed several cluches and trans. and never had this much trouble. I have not done it on a z car yet but vary soon I am pulling the engine and trans from my car . I plan to pull both as a unit , the trans is an automatic , what do you think ? Being I havent done it to a z I would like input please. Thanks Gary

[peterc]

Just a couple of thoughts. Sounds like this might be the first time Sean has tried to install a tranny in a Z.... "I have it all lined up so that its pretty much staight." and " I'm pretty sure I got the disk alinged correctly".

The first time I did it it was a bitch. 'Pretty much straight' won't do. It has to be dead on or it won't slide on, and likewise if the clutch disk isn't centered properly. When you're sliding the tranny up and down and sideways, remember that the input shaft itself has some play to it. I found the biggest problem was to get the splines meshing properly. Once they engage properly the tranny will easily slide home. It helped a great deal to have someone turn the tranny output shaft while we lined it up. Definitely don't force it or use longer bolts to pull it home. If its lined up properly and the splines are meshing it will slide home, if it isn't lined up and meshing properly you'll only break something (voice of experience here).

Something I did which helped me a great deal was to drain the rad and uncouple the two heater hoses going into the firewall. I then tilted the engine ( front up , rear down) and wedged a short piece of 2x4 between the engine oilpan and the crossmember. I found it easier to line everything up with the engine tilted down a little.

Good luck and while you're under the car cursing like mad, remember, as difficult as it is now, by the time you've done it 4 or 5 times it'll be a breeze (yep, that voice of experience thing again).

Peter

p.s. I've pulled and installed a Z tranny by myself, without a jack, so it can be done. But it's much easier with 3 or 4 guys. When your lungs give out there's always someone there to curse for you.

[Royce]

I had mentioned pulling the motor and installing the motor and trans together. When I have done this it was because I had the motor out. When installing it by myself had a problem getting the motor and trans lined up. It is a lot of extra work if you only have the trans out. But I would still do this before using the long bolt idea.

It is best easy to do if you have a load-leveling device for your engine hoist.

-Drain fluids from engine, radiator and trans.

-Disconnect fuel, water and vacuum hoses.

-Disconnect ignition & alternator wires, throttle linkage and choke cables.

-Remove hood. With hood open go to one side and remove bottom bolt and loosen top bolt (where hood is attached to the hinge. Then on other side with hood resting on your shoulder remove bottom bolt and loosen top bolt. Now you can slowly let hood come down (make sure it doesn't go down onto a fender). Then remove the two bolts and remove hood. When you put it all back together don't tighten the bolts with it open. You need to close it and push down on the center at the front to make sure you have proper alignment.

-Remove radiator.

-Jack up the rear of the car and put on stands.

-Attach the engine hoist to the engine and lift enough to remove slack in chain/straps.

-Undo motor mounts and trans mount bolts.

-Adjust the load leveler so that the tranny starts coming down. You need to work the height of the engine hoist and load lever until you get a good angle to start moving the hoist forward until you can get them both out.

I just wanted to give an idea what is involved. As with any procedure it will take longer the first time but will get easier with practice. But hopefully you won’t need a lot of practice!

Hope it helps!

[kmack]

This may seem somewhat trivial, but it's happened to me and I wore my arms out in the process fighting it.

I had the speedo cable drop down and get in the way of the tranny bellhousing once while trying to put the tranny in. Couldn't get it to go all the way in, had 3/8" left to go. I fought for almost an hour, before I finally got on top of the engine looked at it all. Felt like an idiot afterwards, though. :tapemouth