Im re-assembling my front suspension, and replacing the old rubber bushings with the urethane kit from MSA. The bushings that go with the tension rods, seem to be too thick. By the time the rod goes through the hole in the frame with a bushing, and stock washer on each side, there isnt any room for the washer to start threading. There is an indentation in the middle of the bushing that i thought could be a spot to cut it in half. Good or bad idea? Has anyone run into this issue? Thanks guys.

I think that everyone who has installed the urethane bushings front and back has run in to this problem. Here's a few things I've learned:

- It's easier to get the nut and washer on the rod with the car on the ground. It's very difficult when the wheel is hanging and you're underneath it. Get the front one on and the back one, then drop the car and work from behind the wheel to get the washer and nut on.

BUT- many people recommend that you only run the new urethane on the front where it can take the forward braking loads. Leave the stock rubber on the back. This will take the side load off of the tip of the rod and avoid breakage.

BUT - many who have changed all of the bushing, including the front control arm bushings, have not had a problem with rod breakage. It seems to be a combination of the stiff TC bushings with the loose rubber control arm bushings that breaks the rod. I broke one and I only had the TC bushings front and back but had not changed the control arm bushings.

Things to think about.

I have the urethane all around (14 years ago) and replaced TC bushings with MSA urethane front and back 3 years ago with no problems. Like Zed Head said, put Z on the ground to install washer and nut. I was able to reach down from up top in the engine bay and install mine. It does help to be 6'2" sometimes.

Another way to do this is to jack up the suspension on the wheel you are working on while the car is on jack stands. IIRC, that is how I did it about 14 years ago.