My right rear drum is stuck (a.k.a. I hate drum brakes)

[BoldUlysses]

So...I need to get this thing unstuck if I'm going to be able to push the Z in and out of the garage (necessary for a whole host of reasons). It was fine a couple of week ago, but last weekend it seized up. Parking brake is off. Left rear drum rotates freely.

It's not stuck to the hub. I PB'd that and it comes off. I can work the drum off about 1/4" and then it won't go any more, likely because that's how far the shoes will pull off the backing plate.

Using a prybar between the wheel studs, I was able to rotate the drum so I have access to the adjuster gear; however, it won't budge with the screwdriver. I'm trying to rotate it down, right? Parking brake cable is disconnected.

Any and all recommendations for my next step are appreciated.

[black gold man]

[BoldUlysses]

That's almost...balletic.

But the engine is inop at the moment, so that method is a no-go.

[black gold man]

I hear the holes on front of drum will accept bolts helping to push the drum off.

But i beat and pulled until mine came off. Get someone to pull while tapping it with brass hammer.

[SteveJ]

Search for stuck drum here. There are plenty of threads on the subject.

[BoldUlysses]

Thanks guys. Will keep prying at the adjuster gear and/or tapping the perimeter of the drum while pulling.

[ZCurves]

Here is what you need to do:

1. Make sure to release the emergency brake, then find two bolts that will thread into the drum.
   
2. Get a propane torch and heat the area where the hub pokes through and heat the studs.
   
3. Take a hammer and whack around the hub, NOT the studs.
   
4. Next, draw down on the two bolts that you threaded into the drum by a couple of turns each.
   
5. Go to back to step 2 and repeat until the Drum breaks free.
   

Now if one of the bolts pulls out or strips the threads, don't sweat it. These were made to be sacrificial, so you could go up a size on the bolt until it hangs tight. After you get the Drum off you can get it machined or replace it.

Regardless, once you get the Drum free you should discard all of the Brake Hardware including the Cylinder -SAVE the Adjuster.

Celebrate and Drink Beer:beer:

[Reverend]

I got friend of mine babbling behind my back, i got so frustrated of his advices that i smashed my hammer to the drum. And it fell loose

[240260280z]

Cast drums fracture nicely in junkyards

[george71z]

I used a large size, 3 jaw gear puller. Put the jaws around the drum and cranked on it. Got it as tight as I could, and left it sit. Went back about every 10-15 min. and tightened a bit more. Went on to other tasks when, POW, I thought my car blew up. It was the drum releasing from the hub and shoes. Might be worth a try.

[Zed Head]

I can work the drum off about 1/4" and then it won't go any more, likely because that's how far the shoes will pull off the backing plate.

Brake shoe material is designed to have high friction on the interior of the brake drum. I would remove that friction by oiling up the inside of the drum and shoes. Push the drum back on, squirt some oil in, motor oil would probably work well. Spin it around a few times, and keep spinning while you're pulling it off to make sure the contact points get oiled. It will probably slide off fairly easily.

The shoes are going in to the garbage anyway and the drum will be easy to clean.

[beermanpete]

Try to release the adjuster and back down the adjustment. The adjuster is a ratchet. You need to move the ratchet pawl away from the toothed wheel so you can move it backward. Look at the side you can get apart and figure out how to get a probe in there to push the pawl out of the way.

The pawl is the auto-adjuster arm that moves when you apply the parking brake.

Look for a hole in the backing plate near the adjuster wheel. While puching on the pawl with a probe through the hole in the brake drum you should be able to rotate the adjuster with a brake adjusting tool of a small screwdriver through the hole in the backing plate.