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Rebuild or Replace Clutch Master Cylinder on 74 260Z?


mshandor

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Just wondering if anyone has ever rebuilt an Datsun clutch master cylinder using a Black Diamond kit? Since the kit is only and $10 and a new one is $35, I was thinking about saving the $25 and rebuilding it. If anyone has ever rebuilt one with success, please let me know any tricks of the trade.

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I haven't used their kit, but there's another issue that I will warn you about...

I bought a new slave cylinder. Unbolted the old slave from the bell housing. Unscrewed the old slave from the rubber hose, and screwed the new slave onto the hose in it's place. So far, so good.

Then when I went to attach the new slave to the bell housing, I found that it was 180 degrees out of place and I could not mount it to the tranny. The real solution is to pull the retaining clip and take the rubber hose off at the other end, spin the hose around halfway (180 degrees), and then reattach it to the hardline.

But my clutch hardline is looking pretty rusty down there, and didn't want to come off easily. Not wanting to break the hardline, I just rebuilt the old slave and put it back on. I'll deal with that rusty clutch line some other time, just not right now.

The moral... A new slave cylinder might not fit the same way as your old one, and if you don't trust your ability to get the rubber hose separated from the hardline without breaking anything, then you better have a backup plan.

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Thx Captain but my slave cylinder is fine. My master is what is leaking "into" the car. I should have replaced the master when I replaced the slave but didn't. Twice I went to drive it and couldn't change gears. Checked the reservoir and it was empty but no fluid anywhere on the floor. Flashlight inspection near clutch pedal and found little drip from end of master cylinder inside car.

Leaning towards buying a complete new master and not messing with the kit.

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Rebuild kit is more satisfying, less expensive and you know the part will fit.

Replacement is easier....but quality of newer parts tends to be worse than old ones and sometimes newer parts literally have corners cut and features removed besides the risk of poorer quality metals being used. Specifically for a replacement clutch master,you also have to ensure the clevis distances are set correctly.

In both cases,as alluded to by CO above, you should re-seal or replace your slave and you might as well change the rubber hose to bring everything up to the same age (as in aging).

Refurbishing is the best.... original part renewed to like-new. This will require thorough cleaning, inspection and re-plating with replacement of all plastic and rubber. Getting a year matched set from a junk yard or ebay, or getting a part that will work even better from a later nissan (and still fit) is the best route to go. That way you may still be able to operate the car with the other parts but take your time refurbishing the 2nd set then swap out on a sunny day.

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