headlight relays

[grantf]

At Parts Express the part number is 330-070. This is a Tyco (formerly Bosch) 30 ampere NO/NC relay. It will work well for the headlights. Use one for each beam (4 in all).

thanks.

[Zed Head]

so, thinking about the wiring it looks like I might need to reverse the polarity of the headlight to make this work. Is there anything wrong with this approach a better solution or is this the way to go?

Looks like you might have found FW's post already but here it is again, just in case - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?35588-Upgrade-from-fusible-links-to-circuit-breakers/page2&highlight=stinger+relay

There are different ways to use relays to take the loads off of the switches. In addition to FW's method and Dave's harnesses, you could also use three relays in the cabin by the fuse box, one for power to the 10A fuses, and two to ground the circuits coming back to the dimmer switch.

It's a good puzzle. The more you look at it the more it makes sense. Have fun.

[H4LIGHTS]

So you are saying that I should use 18 gauge wire throughout and make all of my conections by twisting the wires together and taping them up with masking tape, ok.

Really why would I do a half assed job trying to improve what works already. The reasons I am doing this is to improve the headlight brightness and to take the load off of combination switches that I just replaced. ( I don't whant my new ones burned up). But I know what you mean I have fixed all of the PO's hack jobs and I do not intend on going back to what I started with. So thanks for helping with a relay choice.

Twisting wires together does not make for great connections. It's OK for breadboarding the project but for the final install proper crimping or nice hot solder joints would be the preference.

And please, no masking tape!

Electrical tape at the least and preferably cold shrink or hot shrink electrical tape on those joints. Wire gauge really depends on how much current you are planning on passing through the circuit. Actuating the relay should not require anything very heavy but if the bulbs you are planning on using are high wattage, erring on the side of safety is better than making a heater circuit out of your newl loom.

Sorry if giving advice on how the job should be done correctly touches a nerve.

Maybe others can use the information when they decide to upgrade.

[grantf]

Twisting wires together does not make for great connections. It's OK for breadboarding the project but for the final install proper crimping or nice hot solder joints would be the preference.

And please, no masking tape!

Electrical tape at the least and preferably cold shrink or hot shrink electrical tape on those joints. Wire gauge really depends on how much current you are planning on passing through the circuit. Actuating the relay should not require anything very heavy but if the bulbs you are planning on using are high wattage, erring on the side of safety is better than making a heater circuit out of your newl loom.

Sorry if giving advice on how the job should be done correctly touches a nerve.

Maybe others can use the information when they decide to upgrade.

I was being sarcastic.

[H4LIGHTS]

Noted.

But since I do not know you it is hard to tell what part of your thread is sarcasm when you state you are using 25 cent relays and; "what can I really loose?"

I went to a car event last evening and watched a car burn.

Attempted to start, loud pop, profuse smoke everywhere.

The owner after exiting the vehicle and standing by the old school Toyota four door with his wife, GF, significant other(?) finally realized after a few moments that it would probably be a good idea to remove the baby from the car seat in the rear.

[grantf]

where did I state that I would use 25 cent relays. I said order. Not much to loose in that if I do not use them I am not out much. I have nothing to prove and no reason to. I think I started this thread to gather information about relays, not how to burn down my car. thanks again for youre help.

[H4LIGHTS]

If you do play fast and loose you might have something to lose.

[5thhorsemann]

If I may throw in my 2 cents, use a 30 amp automotive circuit breaker as apposed to a fuse. The cost is roughly the same as a fuse block and it will reset once it cools down, if you have a short you can trouble shoot it and be on your way without having to get a new fuse.

[grantf]

Ordered the tyco relays and connectors. did some searching on other sites, it seems they are a very common choice.

H4lights, You are not helping at all, you are just being annoying. I do not need electrical lessons from you.

[EScanlon]

And we end up with the moderator stepping in....

Everyone, take a chill pill.

The original post on this thread was asking to be TAUGHT something: Why 5 pins on the relay remember?

One reply was sarcastic and a reply didn't note that. Neither one is a fatal eror.

When you reply sarcastically:

Don't be offended when your sarcasm isn't readily discernable.

Make it obviously sarcastic or use the emoticons appropriately.

The public scold to H4Lights isn't warranted though.

Next step is to close the thread.

Enrique Scanlon

Moderator

[grantf]

PMs set to H4LIGHTS and the Moderator. I was off base.

[grantf]

Would this work?