Gm HEI upgrade on a 78 280Z

[EuroDat]

If it's casing your problem, I would just remove the internals and replace it with a hei unit. Easy on the 78 TIU. Dont't need to change coils to 12volt because it already is a 12v system.

Make an aluminium plate (heat sink) to mount the hei in the TIU casing and solder the wires onto the metal strips on the back of the tiu terminal block. No ome will know its a hei unit.

[TomoHawk]

My wiper linkages have been cleaned to death, and I lubricate  (with DeOxit and light oil)  everything regularly, especially after driving in the rain, so I'm sure that's not why its swiping slowly.  Sarah (FastWoman) mentioned to me that she was successfully able to restore the speed of her wiper motor by jut cleaning the internals and the power contacts.  It makes sense, but the insides are very complicated, IMO.

[Namerow]

11 hours ago, TomoHawk said:

My wiper linkages have been cleaned to death, and I lubricate  (with DeOxit and light oil)  everything regularly, especially after driving in the rain, so I'm sure that's not why its swiping slowly.  Sarah (FastWoman) mentioned to me that she was successfully able to restore the speed of her wiper motor by jut cleaning the internals and the power contacts.  It makes sense, but the insides are very complicated, IMO.

Not sure what you are including when you say, 'wiper linkages', so just in case:  The main cause of slow wipers isn't the linkage joints.  Instead, it's dried-out bushings for two stub spindles that the wiper arms are mounted to.  The grease used by the factory for these bushings seems to coagulate over time and ends up performing like 'anti-grease'.  Some owners have claimed that cleaning and re-greasing these bushings makes it unnecessary to upgrade the motor.  I'm not sure I'd go quite that far, but it does make a big difference.

[TomoHawk]

That's what I did:  cleaned out the old "ungrease" polished off the burrs and reassembled with good grease.  It helped some.  I mentioned before-  that FastWoman got hers to work normally by cleaing out the old grease from inside the motor case, and cleaning the internal electrical contacts.

Edited July 6, 2018 by TomoHawk

[TomoHawk]

How about this...

I plugged in  my CB radio (a Cobra 75 WX ST, with the little antenna connector box) and now I'm picking up some RF noise and a little whine.

Granted, there are about 6 short wires from the distributor junction and from the module to the coil, thee sholdn't be much noise, unless those NGK wires and recommended NGK spark plugs aren't really the best combination?  I have a condenser on the coil (-) pole, and one on the alternator.  Could there be anything else to check? 

What's the correct way to add a condenser to the alternator?  Does the placement of the CB antenna (on the roof at the back) increase or reduce TF noise?

I have a second CB radio, a Midland 75-822, that has a different adapter, so I will try that in the morning.  I'll be going to Springfield, IL. next Thursday for a car show.

 

[TomoHawk]

After a 1200 mile trip, and most of it was  at 3300 RPM, I can tell you the module worked  well. 

But, I'm getting a lot of RF noise on my CB radio.  I have NGK resistor spark plugs, and the NGK wires from MSA.  I kept the wires from the module to the coil fairly short, and there is a condensor on the coil.  Is there anything else you can do?   I was thinking maybe I could disconnect the wires that go to the ignition box connector near the fusebox.

 

Edited August 7, 2018 by TomoHawk

[Mark Maras]

 When I got my first Z,  I swapped the plug wires to copper core wires. AM (71 Z) radio static was unbearable. My local parts supplier suggested using VW (I think) connectors that had a resister in them. They were a Bakelite (?) piece that replaced the rubber boot and connector that slips onto the plug. I cut the plug connection off the new plug wires, screwed the new connector on and voila no more static. I ran them for years with no noticeable change in performance.

[TomoHawk]

Can you provide any specific information? 

Maybe it's this one,     Resistor Spark Plug Cap:   https://www.amazon.com/NGK-LB05FP-Resistor-Spark-Plug/dp/B0018JXPWM 

Or this one:   https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/ngk-spark-plug-resistor-covers/spark-plug-boot-ends-degrees/90-degrees

 

Edited August 7, 2018 by TomoHawk

[Mark Maras]

 The only info I had at the time (1973) was from the parts guy. I did a quick search and there are bakelite VW wire boots still available but I failed to find one with a resistor. I'd go with either of the ones from Summit. They both have resistors in them. You will have to unscrew the caps from the plugs to use these connectors. Hopefully your plugs have removable caps.

[Zed Head]

On 8/7/2018 at 7:26 AM, TomoHawk said:

But, I'm getting a lot of RF noise on my CB radio.  I have NGK resistor spark plugs, and the NGK wires from MSA.  I kept the wires from the module to the coil fairly short, and there is a condensor on the coil. 

The HEI module works the same way that the Nissan module does/did.  No reason for it to produce more EMI.  Are you sure that the noise is RF noise from the ignition system?  And are you sure it's from yours.  You can get it from other engines in the vicinity.  Could be a bad fan motor also.  See if it's still there with the engine not running.

[TomoHawk]

I starts when the engine starts, and the pitch varies with engine RPM...  And you get it ALL the time.

The good news is I don't hear the noise in the new car.

 

Edited August 13, 2018 by TomoHawk

[TomoHawk]

On 8/8/2018 at 12:07 PM, Mark Maras said:

My local parts supplier suggested using connectors that had a resister in them.

I have asked at several local AP stores, and no  one has heard of the resistor caps-  even the old guys at NAPA. Obviously, the young people at mainstream AP stores never heard f anything that's not on the computer, or an OE part, or oil...