How To - S30 Door Lock "Coat Hanger" Repair

[Hardway]

Like so many other Z owners the locks in my ’77 280Z had reached a point where they no longer functioned. After some searching I came across the thread below.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?40683-Door-Lock-repair-for-S30-s

This write up is for the second method shown in the thread by member DBCJMC. I successfully used this method to repair my driver side lock. Wanting to expand on what is involved in making this type of repair I have provided the following instructions below on repairing my passenger side lock.

*Disclaimer: I am not an auto repair professional, I am not ASE certified, and do not take any responsibility for any damage incurred to you or your car while using these instructions. Work on your own car at your own risk.

Tools & Materials Needed:

Your Datsun Z locks removed from your car.

1 Wire coat hanger, same kind that you get from the dry cleaners

1 Drill or drill press

1 5/64 drill bit or bit equal to the diameter of the coat hanger wire

1 metal punch

Bench vice

Metal file

Needle nose pliers

Your favorite spray lubricant (WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc.)

1. Remove the door locks from your car. If they are greasy and dirty take a few moments to clean them with some brake cleaner. You should be left with this.

2. Remove the retainer clip on the back of lock and separate the lock elbow from the lock cam. You will quickly see the reason why your lock no longer works. The notch in the lock elbow has basically chiseled away about 1/16 of material on the cam. This is from years of use and the fact the cam is made from a very soft metal whereas the elbow is steel.

3. Using your metal punch, mark and punch the location you wish to drill in to the cam. Make sure your mark is located far enough off the base of the lock to allow the elbow to go back.

4. Using your drill or drill press, drill a 5/64 hole in to the cam, keeping your drill as straight as possible if you are using a hand drill. GO SLOW! The metal is very soft and won’t take long to go through. Once your hole is drilled use your file to clean up any burrs.

5. Cut a straight piece of wire out of the coat hanger. Around 6” will be plenty to give you leverage as you bend it.

6. This is where your creativity comes in! Liberally spray lubricant in to the lock. Place the elbow back on the lock and center it on the cam. Insert the hanger wire in to the cam. The idea is to wrap the wire around the elbow but you must leave some slack on each side to allow the lock to return to center. If your wire is too tight the lock will not return to center and you will not be able to remove your key from the door. Use your needle nose pliers to help bend the wire. This is not a science and more of an art so be prepared to make one or two pieces of wire as you trial and error your way through it. Below is my first attempt.

I did not keep the elbow exactly centered on the cam as I was bending the wire on the first try. So once I installed the lock in the door I could unlock the door with the key but not lock it. Seeing I would need to re-bend the wire it was easier to just cut off what I had and start over. Below is my second attempt and this one works perfectly. I also wrapped the end of the elbow with some electrical tape. This is not a requirement but I prefer to do it in order to remove the metal on metal contact between the elbow and inner door lock latch.

The end result – fully functional locks for about 20 minutes worth of work and 1 free wire coat hanger. Seeing that used locks are selling for $50/pair and may still need to be repaired and new locks are $120+/pair this is a great alternative. If you have any questions please PM me or email: jeff.d.hadlock@gmail.com On to the next project!

[Unkle]

Errr... thanks for the lock code . Now I have keys to your car !