Absolute drive shaft u-joint nightmare!!!

[dltalfa]

Ok,...my 240Z had a clunk in the rear end. Crawling under her, I decide it is a bad rear drive shaft U-joint. I have replaced MANY u-joints on other model cars over the years,..so I thought this would be a piece of cake.

I even decided to proceed and replace ALL the joints, (all 4 joints on both the half shafts and both drive/prop shaft joints). I orderd all 6 u-joints from Black Dragon.

Assuming the half shafts would be the most difficult, I decided to do them first. I knocked those out yesterday evening. They went much easier than I had even expected.

Being quite proud of my work, I started in on the drive shaft u-joints today. OMG!!!

1st,..I had to contort my hands and body in believeable ways just to get to the u-joint bolts. The combination of the sway bar and the exhaust being in the way had the bolts in a very tight place. I ended up having to drop the sway bar to allow access.

Then, once I removed all the bolts,..the shaft would not slide past the exhaust. The shop manual says to "loosen" the exhaust hanger and push the exhaust to the side. I loosened the strap, only to have it break. (Oh well,..just one more part I need to order). However, the drive shaft still had to be pryed past the exhaust. It was a total bear.

I proceed to remove the rear joint. The new Black Dragon joint, (made in Taiwain), went in fairly easily. It came with a grease zerk that was bent and an almost 90% angle. It did not come with a replacement cap, so I assumed the zerk was intended to stay in the joint.

I proceed and install the second half of the assebly, the part that bolts to the differential,..only to find that the joint assembly now "binds" on the grease zerk!!!

CRAP!!! Was the grease zerk not supposed to stay in the joint? If not,..why didn't it come with a plug? What am I missing here?

I've now got almost 4 hours in replacing one drive shaft u-joit. Any suggestions??

[hr369]

photo? ide go get a smaller zert or pump it full of grease and plug it. didnt your old ujoints have plugs in them?

auto part store usually sells them with a small set of zerts.

[dltalfa]

No, my old set didn't have plug nor a zerk.

I have already installed this new u-joint. If I remove it to insert a plug from the parts store,...will I need a new joint? Can the new one i just installed be re-used without damaging it?

[StinkyCheese]

I need to do this, too, and now I'm scared...

[WDILL]

I will be at the same place in about a month and have ordered and the parts. looks like i need to look at them before I start to replace the old ones. At least my car is on jacks and exhaust system is not in place yet. I'll be wTCHING THIS THREAD.

[hr369]

No, my old set didn't have plug nor a zerk.

I have already installed this new u-joint. If I remove it to insert a plug from the parts store,...will I need a new joint? Can the new one i just installed be re-used without damaging it?

no the zerts are threaded and unscrew. sure, you can reuse zerts. no need to replace u-joint you've already

installed.

[dltalfa]

no the zerts are threaded and unscrew. sure, you can reuse zerts. no need to replace u-joint you've already

installed.

The problem is,..this U-Joint that came from Black Dragon has the grease zerk mounted in the middle, (the flat protion), of the joint. Once I installed the hub section that bolts to the differential, it will no longer flex becasue the grease zerk is binding in between the the drive shaft end and the hub end of the assembly.

I "may" be able to remove the zerk but I'm certain I can not get in there to screw in a cap with the joint together.

I am concerned that if I drive it out and dissasemble the joint that I may damage it,..at least the srping clips.

[5thhorsemann]

Some times you just have to do things twice, no easy way around it. Could it be that you installed the joint with the zerk facing the shaft in stead of the yoke? Meaning is there clearence on the opposite side?

[dltalfa]

Some times you just have to do things twice, no easy way around it. Could it be that you installed the joint with the zerk facing the shaft in stead of the yoke? Meaning is there clearence on the opposite side?

No, the zerk is facing out, hub side. However, the clearance is the same on each side, no variance.

[Lone_Star]

I did this same project about a year ago. I purchased the Brute Force U-Joints from the local auto supply and installed them myself. I dont remember the specific joint, but they are the ones that dont have grease jerks; no jerks, no interference. I used the same ones on my 1-ton truck and went with the ones without zerks because they are stronger. If they can hold up to a ton truck pulling a 32ft travel trailer, they can survive in a Z car.

[darom]

Same here - I didn't want to mess with zerks and bought the zerk-free u-joints.

Btw, I am applauding the author of this thread for replacing all u-joints in the back. To me it was the most frustrating painful experience. I was using the Harbor Freight tool/vise with the impact wrench and I still struggled with my original 76 Datsun u-joints. It took me hours to finish them and in the end I managed to crack one of the half-shafts (had to find a used one). A torch helped the removal process. Next time I am going to freeze the u-joints.

My driveshaft and exhaust were out of the car when I r&r'ed the rear differential/bushings and when I went to install it, I couldn't get 1/4 inch clearance to insert the yoke shaft into the transmission. I had to support the tranny with the jack, lower it at an angle to finish the job. I guess on 240z's you guys don't have this problem?

[dltalfa]

Same here - I didn't want to mess with zerks and bought the zerk-free u-joints.

Btw, I am applauding the author of this thread for replacing all u-joints in the back. To me it was the most frustrating painful experience. I was using the Harbor Freight tool/vise with the impact wrench and I still struggled with my original 76 Datsun u-joints. It took me hours to finish them and in the end I managed to crack one of the half-shafts (had to find a used one). A torch helped the removal process. Next time I am going to freeze the u-joints.

My driveshaft and exhaust were out of the car when I r&r'ed the rear differential/bushings and when I went to install it, I couldn't get 1/4 inch clearance to insert the yoke shaft into the transmission. I had to support the tranny with the jack, lower it at an angle to finish the job. I guess on 240z's you guys don't have this problem?

Thanks Darom. I didn't use any fancy tools,..I performed the job "old school" style. I simply had a can of WD40, a block of wooden 2x4, a flat head screw driver for "poping" out the u-joint clips, a heavy duty socket slightly smaller diamater than the u-joint cup and a BIG hammer for driving the cups out.