1972 = good year, 1973 = bad year

[66_GT_FB]

Correct me if I'm wrong but...

through conversations about early model Z's...I was told that by 1972, Datusn had a lot of the bugs worked out of the car but made some changes in 1973 that resulted in mechanical/electrical problems. Is there any truth to this?

Also, as I am not familiar with engine codes and options for these cars, is there any thing that a 240Z has as an option that makes it more desirable?

The education continues!

Thanks-

[lan240]

73 had bad carbs. You will wnat to replace them with a set of 72 or older round top SU's

[Royce]

I think from the factory the US market '72 is considered by many to be the best 240Z. But at this point many have integrated the improvements into the other years. So by this time there probably isn't as much of a difference but it helps to know what to look for. Reason being that '70 - '71 had a weaker transmission design and the diff mount location caused more stress on the half shaft joints. There were other things (like reclining seats, better rear window defroster, etc.) but those are the big ones. The '73 has the same stronger trans and diff location (moved back about 1") as the '72 but the cylinder head and carbs were redesigned to try to met tougher smog standards. Most '73 these days have been converted from the problematic '73 flat top carbs to the earlier '70 - '72 round top SU style carbs or the weber DGV downdraft carbs. I have seen some cars still running fine with the flat tops but it is harder to find help and parts for them. They probably due better in the California climate than somewhere else were there are more extreme seasonal changes. The Weber DGV's aren't bad either but again harder to find support from the Z community if you have problems. The 240Z is very popular because- it is the first design, it is physically lighter, in the US it has less smog so power is equal if not a little better. Also, the US cars had smaller bumpers which some people prefer to the larger bumpers of the later cars. The 260 & 280's do have some improvements to interior and such that make it a little more comforatable car. I like the 240 because it is simple and raw! I remember driving my sisters '84 300ZX Turbo 50th Anniversary car and thinking what a boat it was. Even with it's adjustable suspension turned all the way stiff.

Hope that helps!

[66_GT_FB]

Significantly!

[Royce]

Oops, just read my post. The first line should read that in the US the '72 is considered by many to be the best out of the box. I didn't mean to imply that the US '72 was best 240Z around the world, I cannot speak for 240Z's in other parts of the world.

Sorry!

[beandip]

the '70 -'72 are lighter but only by a few lbs. like maby 150lbs or so . The flat top SUs are junk but the 73 intake is superior , at least some think so . The '73 had a lot more smogg junk thats for sure and this accounts for some of the weight . where I live after 25 yrs no smogg requirements . I have a '73 and am running early bumpers and a automatic and if I remember right when I weighed the car it was 2650lbs or there abouts with 220lbs of me and full tank of gas. Royce what does '71 come in at about 2400 less driver ? I dont realy konow but I dont think it is much under that. I am not being a smart arse here or anything I am just palling on infomation on my car and what I have read , Gary

[Royce]

My car weighs about 2400lbs (+/- 20) with a full tank of gas and No driver. I have heard people talk about the early series I 240Z's being a little lighter but I think it is very slight and mostly a myth. I think all the 240s are going to be pretty close. The '73 has larger front bumper mounts but not much more that would make it heavier.

I didn't mean to imply the early US 240Zs weighed significantly less than the later US 240Zs. The US 240Z is significantly lighter than US 260Z (late model) & US 280Z. This is because of the larger bumpers, larger radiator support/radiator, heavier exhaust, larger diff, door internals, and many smaller things. Probably good for 300+ lbs!?

[John Coffey]

1970 series 1 with full interior, roll bar, bigger wheels and tires, type B 4 speed, 4 core radiator, 8 quart oil pan and oil cooler, fire extinguisher, rear anti-roll bar, strut tower braces, 1/2 tank of gas, etc.: 2,260 lbs without driver.

[66_GT_FB]

Thanks guys! That's all real good info for me. I had pretty much ruled out the 73 until this post.

I'm not counting grams when it comes to weight but it sounds like I can make some motor/carb adjustments to aleviate any motor woes that potentially afflict the 73.

Although it seems that a carb upgrade on any Z is the way to go.

Can later model heads be placed on early model blocks?

For example, my Mustang has a 66 289 block with 68 302 heads...everything matches up. Is this also true of Z's?

[beandip]

This is one of the beauties of these cars these engines are all built on the same basic block. There is a great site to look at that gives a almost complete rundown on the cars and what is what . You might find the section on carbs. most enlighting . geocities.com/engines2001/html I recomend reading the whole thing . At the beginning of the page you will find a note in white lettering , I forget the title but after reading the main info. check this out also. Gary