Jump to content
We Need Your Help! ×

IGNORED

76 possible electrical problem


bhermes

Recommended Posts

bulbs 1156 as suggested. I basically just took one wire from the alt to the bulb and then another wire from the bulb to the battery, in both cases. I had another person helping and we just held the wires on each of the locations; battery, bulbs, and alt. Not sure on the wire gage but I would guess 18. What should I use? When you suggested the bulb accross the battery do you mean neg to bulb and then bulb to pos? What do you mean be careful?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites


18 gauge is fine. The comment about being carefull is based on the possibility of connecting a short across the battery. If it shorted the wires will get hot fast and could burn you.

Make sure the wires connecting to the bulb are securely connected to the correct terminals. A socket would be best but it is possible to solder the wires directly to the base, one to the small center contact and one to the metal shell. Holding the wires to the bulb by hand is not a reliable way to do this. It requires to many hands and too much luck.

Ofter you get the wires connected securely to the bulbs, connect one wire to the battery positive and one to the car body or engine block. If the bulb is wired correctly it will light brightly. If it does not light but you get are sparks at the wire leads it is shorted.

Edited by beermanpete
spelling/typos
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After messing up the light bulb check I now have another problem. My battery is dead apparently and car will start with a charger no problem. The rpm gage is not working and the rpms at idle are extremely high. Cant get them to come down.

Any suggestions? I assume I did something when I shorted the bulb though the alt and battery but not sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, false alarm. The above issue with the rpms was just a blown fuse (fuel gauge). I am beginning to lean torwards wiring issue on the voltage regulation problem and more specifically the round multi pin connector going to the voltage regulator (the female side).

Not sure if this makes sence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The story continues. After replacing the fuse, I let the car run for about 10 minutes to let the battery charge, and interesting enough the voltage issue has gone away at leat for the most part. I am getting about 13.5V at idle and about 16V at 2200 rpms (seems a little high but previously I was getting 17-18V at 1500 rpms). I turned on the lights and the voltage never got about 14V. Not sure if this means anything. I am thinking even more that it is in the voltage regulator connector. I have disconnected and reconnected about 10 times and maybe currently it is seated correctly. I am guessing the next time I drive the connection may work loose.

Can this connection, female side, be purchased new and spliced on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 volts is too high. The voltage is most likely lower now because your battery is not fully charged. Charge the battery with the battery charger until it is fully charged, about 13 volts without the charger turned on.

Clean and inspect the connectors to make sure they are in good condition. You must have clean, bright surfaces to get a reliable connection. Also, they can loose their spring tension over time, especially if overheated (caused by dirty connections). Make sure they fit tightly into each other. They should be hard to connect and disconnect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just read this whole thread over and honestly I think you should just listen to 5thhorseman and get a Zx internally regulated alternator and the plug that bypasses the external regulator. Alot of your time and money would be saved in my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bypass plug (adapter) is for the 240Zs. bhermes has a 76 280Z. It's still not too difficult, using home-made jumpers at the plug, although there is the brake check warning lamp relay to worry about.

Although, it may be that bhermes is refusing to be beaten by the external system. He'll probably make it work then switch to the internal just to show complete mastery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know me to well. I just bypassed the yellow and white with black strip wires from the 2 prong plug off the alternator to the voltage reguator (bypassing the voltage regulator plug, assuming the connections may be bad, with no success. Still getting in excess of 17V when enginer is rev'd.

Yes I did want to tame the ext alt beast but just about to give up.

Other option is to take the car to electical auto place but this really defeats the purpose that I bought the car and that was to become a self made mechanic. Or maybe after this post a forum made mechanic. Thanks to all that have stayed with this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if I should even ask; however, if anyone has an external regulated alternator and has the multi pin connector to the extrenal voltage regulator, I am just trying to determine how easy it is to mate and unmate? Mine almost wants to fall off. Maybe a little over stating.

Also, if this plug is not connecting properly or if I have a wiring problem then even switching to the int alt I may still have a problem.

Not sure if I can find a connector, checking around.

If you feel in a really helpful mood I would be interested in how your connector mates and unmates.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure if anyone is still out there, would not blame you. After reading a few other psots I am beginning to think that an aftermarket ext reg alt and an aftermarket voltage reg are not compatable.

Does anyone out there have this situation and have you tested your voltage at the battery to see if it is working? Just trying to make a case to help others.

I bypassed 5/6 wires, will be bypassing the 6th today, at the ext regulator with little to no change in voltage. I have noticed that with the lights on my voltage stays in or around 15V. I will be checking again at elevated rpms and may start driving the car a little with lights on.

I can not find any other wiring issues and have been through enough regulators, alternators, and batteries.

Buying int reg alt in about 1 week and giving up. I hate to give up but no other choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.