76 possible electrical problem

[bhermes]

Threw in the towel today. Bought the internally regulated alternator. Part will be here in the morning. Hopefully this works.

Sad, really wanted to get the ext reg alt to work just for discussion purposes.

I will post when completed or sooner if I get in trouble.

[beermanpete]

Still here. I am not sure how an externally regulated alternator and external regulator would not be compatible if they are the correct part numbers.

Did you ever manage to perform the test with the 2 light bulbs or in some other manner verify if your alternator is the internally or externally regulated type?

[bhermes]

Yes. Ext regulated. I guess tomorrow when I put the int reg alt on and make the electical changes needed I will find out if there is some other issue. Not sure what is going to happen if I have a wiring issue of some kind.

I have removed the alternator and waiting for the new alt to arrive in the morning. I have some dirrection on what changes are required and hopefully things go smoothly.

[Zed Head]

You might run in to the brake warning lamp check relay problem. Here is a convoluted novel on the subject that I wrote way back when I did the same swap (start at Post #4, or read #1 - 3 for amusement) - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?36480-1976-280Z-Alternator-Upgrade-Minor-Issue-Battery-Drain

[Zed Head]

Can't edit my post for some reason...

You can do the alternator swap without cutting any wires. Just make jumpers at the harness plug. If you find out the problem is elsewhere, then you can go back with no damage, if you want to.

[bhermes]

OK. Getting ready to pick up the new alternator, go to the dentist, and then install. The wire changes seem straight forward other than I am a little confused where and how the best way is to jump them. I am currently planning on jumping on the engine harness side just prior to the 6 pin connector. I am going to use the quick splice connectors to blade into the current wiring. I am going to jump the white and yellow wires with one quick splice and the white with black strip and the blue wire with another. I think I can remove these later if I decide to go back to the original alternator. Hopefully this will not be needed.

I realize that this will leave me with a brake light issue and I will address that next.

I am not sure what male contact to use if I jump at the 6 pin connector unless I cut the voltage regulator and use them. I supose I could always butt splice them back on if needed.

Any comments? What way would you go?

[SteveJ]

I would do it the easy way. Make the jumpers that can plug into the engine harness. Heck, even taking your old VR and cutting the plug off and soldering or butt splicing the ends would be a better idea than hacking the engine harness. Look at the guide in Blue's tech tips. Please don't make it more difficult than it needs to be.

[Zed Head]

It would look something like this, with jumpers. All the wires you need are on the body harness side. (Can't believe a little Paint file is so big...)

Alt Swap Jumpers.bmp

Edited April 12, 2012 by Zed Head

[bhermes]

OK. I think everythign is rewired and I have the alternator in palce; however, I am having issues with the belt adjustment bolt not staying tight. I am not sure and this may sound like a really dumb question "but is the mounting braket that the bolt goes through suposed to be on the, front of the car side, or back of the car side, of the alternator. It currently is sitting on the front side.

I started the car and the belt was squelling a little or maybe a lot.

[bhermes]

Took alt nack off and I see no way of getting the brkt on the other side. Any idea why the adjustment bolt will not tighten? Should I tighten the bolt and then pull back the alt?

[Zed Head]

Coincidentally, I just noticed today that my cheapo alternator belt has stretched to the limit of the adjustment slot. $18 for kevlar-reinforced or $5 for another cheapie.

Edit -

Went out to change the belt and realized that I don't even typically loosen the bottom bolts. Just the two on the adjustment bracket. Loosen two bolts on bracket, insert long screwdriver down between alt and engine block, pry back and tighten outer bolt on bracket. Might not be the best way but it has worked well.

Edit 2 = also noticed that the more worn the belt is, the harder it is to get to the outer bolt. It's a pain.

Edited April 12, 2012 by Zed Head

[bhermes]

I am doing exactly what you are suggesting except I only have one adjustment bolt. I still have some play in the adjustment, about 1 more inch. My problem is that the adjustment bolt will not tighten. I starts to thread and then looses grip and becomes loose. I tried to tighten it the best I could and started the car and the belt squelled. I assume because the belt is not tight enough. Any thoughts?