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240z/sr20det swap


chriszen

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I'm planning to buy a 240Z & fit a SR20 DET for light weight & adequate power with good reliability & economy. Has anyone heard of this being done & what were the results like. I would like to know how much weight I would be saving over the original setup.

Does anyone know how this will affect the front/rear wight distribution.

In addition can you give me any tips as to other work required.

Thanks for any advice you can give me.

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Engine kinda sounds like a truck, but is very reliable, easy to squeeze power out of, plentiful, cheap and most importantly a nissan! Fit it as far back in your engine bay as possible for good weight dist., you will lose a little bit of weight, but not like 200kgs or anything..and I have seen one with an SR fitted...didn't sound as good as an L6, but went hard, was reliable and good on cold start too!

Good luck man, let us see the results!:classic:

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Hi Chris,

"Great minds think alike".

I've been working on exactly the same conversion since late 1998.

I have done all the mods as far as x-member, engine & gearbox mounts go & I must say it's quite a difficult job to fabricate the engine mounts to make the engine sit back as far as possible.

After trial fitting was done you can see all of the x-member & then some. If you ever need to work on the engine, you can actually stand inside the engine bay & work on it so you don't get those nasty elbow dents on you're fenders.

As for weight, I believe you will loose around 80-100 kgs & the mighty SR is no truck engine. With a nice exhaust, intercooler, & 1 bar of boost with good tunning, around 200kw@wheels is attainable.

The good thing about putting this engine in a zed is that it's lightweight, very rare, & there's nothing better than being the underdog & giving the V8 & 6 brigade a run for there money.

On the other hand if you lose, you only have a 2.0 litre 4 cylinder.

I only have a few pics of my project for now, most of them are in my laptop, but if anyone want's to see more let me know.

Nick.

P.S. I believe my signature line sais it all.

post-3241-1415079235867_thumb.jpg

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I was wondering the same thing until I started looking a little closer at all the neat fiberglass panels on the car, have to bet the hatch is fiberglass too. Doesn't explain the "foam", unless it's just being used as a shim for final fitting or are you molding the hatch in too?

I noticed the rain gutter is gone Nick, how hard was that to re-weld?

I like the flares, shame we can't get decent flares(full quarters) here in the US anymore. I also like the rear panel, is that all fiberglass?

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zedrally & 2ManyZs,

The foam is a filler used to delete the hatch ( I don't need it, not a golfer & don't carry dead bodies). Yes the hatch is f/glass which was fastened into position & then the gap was filled in & is now f/glassed over. I actually used the foam filler to make the rear guards. For strength I have retained the original steel panels but have cut the inner & outer wheel arch up about 3 inches & butt welded the 2 together so as to get clearance for the 275 40 17 tyres. Then I used the foam to get the desired shape (a reduced IMSA, GTU look).

Once the correct shape was attained, I started laying on 1 layer of glass matting, 1 layer of carbon/kevlar, & 2 layers of woven glass matting, (very messy & time consuming). The same will be done to the front.

As for the gutters, nothing is easy when modifying a car, & you should know that I'm going for the frameless door look as well.

The rear panel is all steel & as you've probably noticed, the # plate will be fitted in the new position.

Here's a couple more pics.

Nick.

post-3241-1415079238377_thumb.jpg

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I used the Nissan Skyline GTR lens assemblies & made complete new covers using the foam, fibregalss, & carbon.

Once again, took forever to make.

As for what I do, I'm in the motor trade & I've been playing with cars since I was about 12. (took after my old mans trade - panel & paint man & also mechanic).

Nick.

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