3 years is a long time!!

I have seen surface rust cause the same thing when they are left in bare metal too long

On 1/26/2019 at 7:28 PM, Patcon said:

3 years is a long time!!

I have seen surface rust cause the same thing when they are left in bare metal too long

it was only in bare metal about 4 hours.  Its a long time indeed, I often wonder how far along it might have been!

On 1/26/2019 at 1:46 PM, grannyknot said:

Well the paint looks magnificent, such a shame it had to be redone, life is too short for that kind of thing. So now just the reassembly?

Yes ?

2 hours ago, Jason240z said:

it was only in bare metal about 4 hours.  Its a long time indeed, I often wonder how far along it might have been!

I'm about 9 years in right now. I have similar thoughts

9 hours ago, Patcon said:

I'm about 9 years in right now. I have similar thoughts

Do it right, do it once.

The worlds slowest car build has had some progress.

 

1st off, its off its wooden dolly, the one that was suppose to be for 3 months, lasted 6.5 years. I put it on the suspension mounting points so couldn't bolt anything to it.

 

I was fortunate enough to have tracked down all the correct moustache bar parts, with a little help.

 

Had to make a former to make the ends correct.

 

Subaru 4.44 plated r180.  Had it apart and checked bearings and wipe pattern, all perfect. I'd like to use bolts instead of the studs though for the rear mounts, can't see why not?

 

 

All the rear end is now in place(chassis stuff).  Rear suspension is now on.

 

 

I've just gone for new rubber bushings everywhere.

 

I need to check with with Ad at VA motorsport exactly how the suspension tops go together in the car, its intrax suspension with VA's road/rally topmounts.  Theres little adapters/spacers.  I can't work out if they go on the underside or inside.

 

 

Nothing is torqued down yet, i've ordered a few replacement bolts for ones i've lost. 

 

I've got to do a bit of stonechip on the front rails under the engine.  Not looking forward to that.

 

Knackered steering rack doesn't please me.

 

 

Some pretty things put back on.....

 

Firewall insulation cut

rearlights and panel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You're through paint, which is the hard part. Maybe it will get easier from here. Did you find new crenelated mustache bar washers somewhere?

Jason, Congrats with the progress you are making, specially with set backs you had with painting.

I'm impressed with the mustache bar rubbers find. They are rare items these days. Last time I heard someone finding a nos set was back in 2014.

I like your caliper/disc combination.

That is a nasty little crack in the steering rack. I have never seen one crack like that. Most just worn out internals.

Edited June 10, 20195 yr by EuroDat

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

You're through paint, which is the hard part. Maybe it will get easier from here. Did you find new crenelated mustache bar washers somewhere?

yes Alan-T had some spares, once I'd found the mustache bushings.

2 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Jason, Congrats with the progress you are making, specially with set backs you had with painting.

I'm impressed with the mustache bar rubbers find. They are rare items these days. Last time I heard someone finding a nos set was back in 2014.

I like your caliper/disc combination.

That is a nasty little crack in the steering rack. I have never seen one crack like that. Most just worn out internals.

I think it was the bronze bearing 'picking up' inside, or the small crack caused the bronze bearing to move/split which added to it.

I've been having a ruddy nightmare getting the wheel bearings right.  Think I've sussed it,  but needed to put a wheel on to check for play.  far from ready for it.

Good chance to also check my new finned alloy drums

Got on with some bits i'd been putting off due to the 'fear' of doing it.

 

There was a tiny bit of over 'blasting' from the second round of paint that left the bottom of the rails looking like they could suffer, along with the lovely original panel joins in the wheel well, that would be prone to water ingress, so it was stripped, etched/sealed/primed/stone chipped and painted.

 

 

stone chip

 

all under the front also.

 

Then paint

 

 

Once that was done, subframes and ARB's.

 

 

 

Rear wheel bearings finally sorted.  I've got a technique now, after all the practice I had! I shimmed the companion flange 1mm using 0.5mm shims, wheels turn nice and freely.

 

A dry build of the front suspension

 

 

 

I've an issue, where the lower adjuster on the front strut hits the balljoint thread.

 

 

only needs 3mm to clear

 

However a set of RCA's/bump steer spacers will do the job.  Common american ones are 1" which I think is far too much, 15-18mm would do myself fine.

 

I've concern over how close to the frame rail the front arb is.

 

I can't remember how close the standard one is.  a 'fix' would be to increase the thickness of the spacer/spreader plate under the chassis rail and cutting some length out of the distance piece on the arb link.  I'll measure how much travel I get before it hits first.

 

I did drop it on its wheels for the first time in 7-8 years.