Yep, very pleased with the body

Hr369: It wasn't be who bought the radio off you, I take it you've posted one to the sunny UK? the floor is pushed up, in the area in front of the seat bracket, it is now flat again after removing the damaged rail. I'm having a local place bend me some new floor rails in 1.5mm, so just a little stronger than the standard 1.2mm

Once i've done the welding repairs its going to get media blasted inside and underneath so I can think about getting some paint on her

Yes,sent a series 1 radio to Blackpool, Lancashire. i saw in one of your pictures that you didn't have a radio in your car.

since that was an arizona car im betting you're finding lots of sand inside the car. was there much rust in the underside of the frame rails?

Hi

I managed to source one over here, glad to see there's someone else sorting their car out properly!

Yes, lots of sand, inside all the wiper motor area and every join/panel on the front end, some of it was as hard as rock and a pain to get out, however better to have sand than rust. Frame rails and floor were good on the inside(i'll post a pic up soon of them).

The problem with a car from Arizona seems to be huge cracks in all the interior plastics/dash. Oh and dog-legs too.

Well a slight thread revival!

I had some rails made up, cleaned the floors underneath. found a few more bits of rust....

Marked them up with tape! As i'm getting a pro to do the formed bits and doglegs

Joined the ends of the old rails onto the new ones, I've decided to go over length as the rails were long enough. I'm still not 100% sure if this was the right thing to do. I also made a jig using the drain holes in the floor to pull the floor flush.

Jacking damage has all been repaired also.

Just to be 100% the floor was painted and the rails on the inside to stop any rust traps forming

Also found the right colour orange to paint the car in, this was the best of the samples I got

Now both rails are sorted and floors are straight, smaller patches are done.

I'm now reeling really motivated again.

I've got to finish getting the car 100% bare, remove the last of the underseal from the rear of the car. It'll then go to a fabricators to be shot blasted, zinc primed, then have the dog legs fitted and the floor holes where the formed shapes are repaired. From there its going straight for paint, inside out and upside down.

Looks like you started with a pretty clean Z to begin with - and for a 240Z it had very little rust. Great project - keep at it - and be sure to enjoy the process. Once it is done, a lot of the fun will be over.. but you'll have a great Z to drive and enjoy. Keep us Posted on the progress..

Carl B.

Looks like you started with a pretty clean Z to begin with - and for a 240Z it had very little rust. Great project - keep at it - and be sure to enjoy the process. Once it is done, a lot of the fun will be over.. but you'll have a great Z to drive and enjoy. Keep us Posted on the progress..

Carl B.

Thanks, it was the most honest I could get here at the time, before the strip down it looked very very solid however it seems if you look you will find it. It made sense to start with the best I could find/afford at the time.

Well time for an update

Its had all the metal work done, Dogleg repairs, inner wing behind doglegs, a couple of bits on the floor, floor rails(were damaged due to jacking in the wrong place). Other little bits and bobs also done.

A bit of work done on the panel gaps. Really pleased as the cars still 95% original metal and should stay like that for the next 40 years.

Well time for an update

Its had all the metal work done, Dogleg repairs, inner wing behind doglegs, a couple of bits on the floor, floor rails(were damaged due to jacking in the wrong place).

I have the same problem. I think someone used a hoist in the wrong place.

Nice work Jason. It will be a dam nice Zed when its finished. Ill be waiting for the next update;)

Chas

how are you going to keep water out of that dog leg in the future? i ran a weld over the top

of my joints so no water should make its way inside the leg. i think that joint sees alot

of body flex and the body seam sealer over the years cracks. i know how people want to keep

the car original in all respects but im sure there are ways to improve the engineering over

what datsun did.

I'm going to put a drain hole in it with a rubber plug/bung, also seal on the rear of the badge where water can get in to run down. It'll be full of dinitrol.

Rust Prevention Waxes and Oils

I have thought of putting in extra drain holes in lower areas that tend to rust, anyone know if there is a way to put in a drain that stays open in in such a way that water can get out from the inside but cannot get in from the outside? Like a 90 degree hose or pipe that comes out of the hole somehow? Or maybe a rubber plug that looks something like the throttle boot at the firewall does but is not as long so it doesn't hang down to be visible?

I would think you'd be better off with a bung, so for the times you have it standing inside you could remove to allow it to breathe? Not sure how else you'd do it. Well actually in hindsight, you'd put a hole in the inner sill return that goes behind the dog leg, that would mean air could get around but you'd still need a drain of some sort.

these are ford drain plugs that they used at the bottom of quarter panels.

kind of big but there are probably smaller ones out there. it has a nice

directional cover to keep water from splashing in.