side moldings on '77 280z

[EScanlon]

The soldering method is an old school method (think lead body filler).

Basicaly you use a larger soldering iron, the one I have is an old (1940 / 50 or thereabouts) soldering iron used to heat LARGE items. The soldering tip (the part that gets hot) is close to an inch in diameter, and the heating coil is probably two inches. In either case it can transfer a LOT of heat quickly and because of that, short applications allow you to quickly heat a small hole and get the solder to stick.

I use Acid Core Solder, heat the iron up and some liquid flux. A quick dab of flux, heat the hole, touch the solder wire to the tip of the iron and in two or three seconds you remove the iron S L O W L Y so that the solder does not get pulled away from the extremities of the hole and it will be cool before you can put the iron down to check.

Clean up is important, a dab of Lacquer Thinner or DeNatured Alcohol to ensure the flux and any acid are neutralized and you can sand the "bead" of solder smooth and paint.

I've used this technique on louver mounting screws, rivet holes, and other holes generally 3/16" or less without any difficulty.

If doing a complete paint job and you've stripped the paint off, metal preparation is the same afterwards, self-etch primer, or if being done after being primered, Sealer.

FWIW

E

[Oiluj]

Solderingcan work, but it does take some skill. Practice on smething else before really messing-up your paint! Probably safer installing small plastic or rubber plugs.

Try McMaster-Carr as an easy source.

[IRISHoftheEast]

You guys are awesome.

Also, as promised - a close-up of the holes and another pic