Priming New Oil Pump - How to?

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! Thanks guys!

Sell them??? Haha! I'm hoping that after my oil pressure issues are solved, I won't never ever never ever need it again, right? Ever. Right?

I could cut it down a little to make shipping easier and offer it up to make the rounds for the tool loaner program! :laugh:

Now that you mention it though... How about a shorter version that would fit into your standard 1/4 hex drive extension? Something with a 1/4 male hex on one end that would fit into the extension and the other end machined to fit the oil pump. Would only have to be long enough to stick up out of the distributor hole. Maybe 12 inches long overall or so? Either stick the drill down in there (if it will fit), or buy an extension if there's too much stuff in the way. Rev II. :bulb:

Let's hope I don't need it!

[ZCurves]

Overkill! I think NOT! Well done sir!

[coop]

I've been using my reversable drill for decades to prime my Z's oil system. Just get about a 16" long 1/4" thick steel shaft (rough dimensions)from the metal salvage yard or Home Depot, etc. Put one end on a grinder to approximate the shape of the tip shown in Captain Obvious's photo(no fancy machining necessary) then afterward, put the other end into your drill chuck. Don't forget to set your drill to REVERSE prior to inserting the thing into the distributor hole and down into the slot in the oil pump, then let her rip. What I really like about this thing is that it verifies the spray pattern coming out of the spray bar. A bad spray hole is discovered instantly. Very cool. Can I get an Amen?

[Captain Obvious]

Good point on the direction of rotation. I forgot to mention that the correct way to spin the shaft is counterclockwise when looking down at the distributor.

And yes, I'll give you an amen on checking the cam oiling. I don't have spray bar on my 280, but I did verify that I had oil coming out of all the lobe holes. It didn't really "spray" while I was priming it, but it was better than an "ooze". Kinda in between. I had to put my drill on the lower speed (higher torque) setting to spin the priming shaft, and I have no idea what RPM that was.

[beermanpete]

Amen!

[240260280z]

I just skinned the same cat:

1. Remove oil filter

2. Stick vinyl hose into the oil passage that runs towards the front of the motor

3. Push the hose deep into the passage

4. Use a transfer pump or gravity and a funnel to feed oil into the hose

5. Place oil filter back on and crank for a while.

[siteunseen]

Me too! Gigidy.

[Captain Obvious]

Blue, Did you verify your cam oiling looks proper?

siteunseen, Those are good healthy streams you got there... What were you using to spin the pump, or is that just the starter motor turning things?

[240260280z]

Yup, I cranked and pulled the cover off after cranking and for small bursts.

This car has a Maxima N47 head with oil passages in the cam and no oil bar (like sightunseen's excellent photo above).

[Captain Obvious]

Sweet. I'm now always skeptical about the stock spray bars after what I've seen on a few.

[siteunseen]

That block has been vatted and the oil passages reamed out with a gun cleaning kit. But boy oh boy was I happy to see that! A Dewalt set on low with torque set in the middle and a rod off a paint mixer that I ground flat. Scared for about 10 seconds then my shoes got an oiling. When I took the picture my drill was running at 1/2 "throttle", wide open on low shot it out of the head. Put the cover on and ran it trigger all the way. Thanks for your help Captain. And thanks Blue for that tip on filling the pump from the filter opening.

[240260280z]

I have one question about the priming with the electric drill: Isn't the spindle gear connected to the crank via a worm gear and woodruff key? So to spin from above,you have to drop the pump to pull the spindle gear out?