1976 EFI Overhaul

[sscanf]

My apologies if this is a duplicate, the system seems to have just swallowed my carefully crafted posting (telling me I wasn't logged in). Here goes again.

I just bought a 1976 280Z as a project car. The body is in good shape but its been partially dismantled. The previous owner took it apart to move some performance parts to his new Z. So it came with the EFI intake/throttle off the car (along with a bag of misc stuff). Exhaust is missing (I have MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, and MSA premium exhause on order from the Z store). Bumpers are off. Interior taken apart. Drum brakes need work (in-progress - Front disks/calipers look great though). Previous owner upgraded distributor to ZX/electronic, replaced fusible links with fuse block, new dash cap/carpet.

My first goal is to get it put back together and running to see what I have. Since the EFI intake/throttle is off the car I decided to replace the injectors (on order) and clamps (one side of the fuel rail had standard hose clamps rather than EFI clamps - looks like one of the injectors was replaced a while back). I have mostly stripped the manifold and would like to give it a good cleaning (along with the throttle which I have removed). What is the best way to clean them inside and out? Carb cleaner and elbow grease? Have it dipped? Something else?

Putting it all back together will be an adventure. The previous owner did mark the wiring harness (I will clean all the contacts with deoxit) and I found the Datsun EFI Theory/Troubleshooting book on-line - I think most of my questions will be answered there. I will replace all of the vac hoses and any water/fuel host that doesn't look new (some look newly replaced). I have a new throttle gasket on hand. I will get all new injector hold-down bolts (not screws!) and tighten them appropriately when I reassemble.

Any other suggestions while EFI intake is off the car? What would you do?

Thanks,

Dan

PS, Here it is:

[240260280z]

Replace all fuel hoses (including those at pump and tank.

Your new exhaust will drone ~ 2800rpm....http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/exhaust/index.html.... get a glass pack too.

For EFI, this should keep you out of trouble: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

For the throttle body, spray it with throttle body cleaner.

[siteunseen]

I used lacquer thinner from a paint store, about $10 a gallon, and a heavy duty de-greaser from a bar-b-q restaurant I do maintenance for which was free. Scotch brite scouring pads (also from the restaurant) a round wire brush for a drill and alot of that elbow grease you speak of. Cleaned internal parts as well as intake, valve cover and suspension parts. Oh yeah get some of those toothbrush looking wire brushes out of the welding section at Lowes. Lacquer thinner for the really greasy then finished up with the degreaser and hot water. I'm happy with the results and carb cleaner is pretty much lacquer thinner but more expensive. My .01 cents worth of advice.

[Zed Head]

Saw this method the other day -

Looks promising. Don't try it in the garage.

[superlen]

For cleaning the connectors, plain white vinegar works well too if you don't have deoxit close by. Also, buy some of the replacement connector off ebay and change them out. Your old ones I'm sure are brittle. Don't cut and splice though, just remove the two pins from the old connector. (clean them with your contact cleaner of choice) and then stuff them into the new connectors. It makes a fast nice looking install. Much better than soldered lumpy heat shrink look.

BTW. You will have to use a really small screwdriver to release the tabs that hold the pins in the connector. If I get time this weekend, I'll take some pics and post.

Lenny

[sscanf]

Thanks for all the references and advice. The links were really helpful, especially when it came to putting things back together. I also have the Fram G3 fuel filter ready to install (and a new factory fuel filter) before I try to start this thing. I cleaned mainfold without the torch (but was tempted). I used two cans of throttle body cleaner and lots of brushes. I'm pretty happy with the results. Here are some detailed photos (including the before picture) that might help someone else out in the future. Note, I replaced the screws with bolts but only hand tightened them with a screw driver (nut driver for future removal). I had to cut a slot with a dremel to get one of the screws out (and most of the others did not come out easy).

Before

Parts

Detail

After

I spent some time prepping the head for installation tonight. I have the new header/exhaust on-hand along with new studs and bolts.

Edited March 28, 2012 by sscanf

[siteunseen]

Looks good. Don't forget the anti-seize for the new studs and bolts on the aluminium head.

[Captain Obvious]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52373[/ATTACH]

Assuming the original Phillips screws aren't all smeared out, I recommend that you switch back to the original factory hose clamps. Why? Because OEM Nissan is stainless, while the aftermarkets are zinc plated steel.

Take a magnet to the OEM's and then to your new ones. I bet the new ones are magnetic, while the originals are not.

I've been known to grab a couple of the OEM Nissan clamps from the junkyard while I'm there. I use 'em all over the place. They're not just for Nissan anymore.

[sscanf]

Yep, the new ones are magnetic but... half of the original clamps had been replaced with water hose clamps during a previous repair. Will keep this in mind in future.

[Captain Obvious]

Sorry I didn't get to you sooner. On the good side, if you do decide to replace them all with OEM, you can replace the clamps without taking the hoses off the nipples. If you are careful and are comfortable working with small easy to drop parts, you can take the screws completely out and spread the clamps enough to get them onto the hoses without taking the hoses off.

I really don't like the water style (with the slots in them) for fuel line applications. The shots cut into the hoses...

[FastWoman]

I agree with Captain. I wouldn't use non-stainless and/or slotted clamps. Those hoses can come apart (not just come off) if poorly clamped. If you have a fuel leak, fuel will run over the hot exhaust manifold, and your car can go up in flames. I once had a fuel filter leak on my '66 Mustang, and yup, the engine caught fire. Fortunately the damage wasn't a fraction of what it could have been (especially considering the car was in my garage when this happened).

Anyway, don't mess around with the wrong clamp. Get some of these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-G3912/

... in the correct sizes, of course. (I don't know whether this one is the right size.) They are extremely flexible and do not cut into the hose. These are the best clamps I've ever used.

[siteunseen]

Got my six today and they look great! Probably still would be stressing had you not shared your information, thanks again sscanf. Thank you for telling about the O rings already in the box, I was about to waste $18 for those.