Clutch recommendations

[LeonV]

Go with the 9lb flywheel, you will not regret it. It's not like the clutch you'll be using is super-light. The pressure plate will probably outweigh the flywheel and friction disk. I don't think you'll have any issues driving it if you have any competency in driving a manual transmission car. I'm putting a 10lb Fidanza flywheel onto my L24 in the near future, FWIW...

EDIT: as far as your original question, a stock clutch should hold up fine. You can use the 240mm turbo/2+2 unit if you're worried about it, but I'd have no qualms with using a stock clutch with a mild L28.

Edited March 26, 2012 by LeonV

[hogie]

I have had a couple centerforce clutches and they weren't very heavy at all.

[Ben's Z]

Not to hijack a thread here but I am in midst of having a 280zx turbo motor rebuilt to drop in the 77. End horsepower goal is 250-270 at the wheels. I think I need something like exedy 240mm stage 1, the 240mm being designed for the turbo apps. Other threads I have looked at say the N/A 225mm clutch size would be fine with some sort of upgraded friction disc material. Does anyone have an experience with this?

[Rainman]

Hey Ben.. The 3.1L Rebello in my 260Z makes about the same power and I'm using a 225mm Centerforce II clutch on the stock flywheel in my 260Z and have had no problems at all.. FWIW

[Montezuma]

I have a real sweet Clutchmasters Stage IV clutch kit that I am selling, it would be awesome for the motor set-up you are planning to run. I also have an ultra-rare HKS Dynamic Flywheel both are brand new in the box.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Okay, I am still confused guys.

I am about to buy a clutch kit, and I find clutch kits for 240Z and 260Z with one part number, and clutch kits with 280Z with another part number. Then I hear that people run 240Z clutches with L28's. AAAAAAAHHHH

too much info. I am putting an L28 with a Type B 4 speed in my Z. Now, I bought my Tranny form Z carsource, and it is a thing of beauty, but all I know is it is a B type form 72-79. I have no idea which car it came from. It could have been a 240z, a 260Z, or a 280z. So with that being said, I am not sure which clutch kit to buy. I am satisfied with a stock type of clutch. But should I buy a L28 clutch for a 280Z or a 280ZX. I hear some of you bought a 280ZX clutch kit. I have found those. Can I use my 240Z slave cylinder and clutch fork?

[Diseazd]

You can use either clutch with either tranny. Both trannies are the same dimensions, so the tranny doesn't care whether it's a 240 or 280 clutch. What is important is that you use a 240 collar and fork with the 240 clutch or if you use the 280 clutch, use the 280 collar and fork. I use 240 Z clutches in all 4 of my Z's, so I can interchange, and always know what I need. 2 of my cars are 280's and 2 are 240's. All are running 240 stock clutches with excellent results! If your set-up currently is running a 240 clutch, you already have the fork, collar and slave for that set-up. Use the 240 clutch and you're home free!

Edited May 10, 2012 by Diseazd

[Marty Rogan]

Zedy,

The critical thing to keep straight is, to match the clutch to the throw out bearing collar, and to match the fork to the slave cylinder.

If you use the stock 240Z Clutch and pressure plate, use the L24 throw out bearing collar. You say you have an A-Type 4 spd. now, so you probably have a fork with the hole in it for an adjustable slave cylinder. That will work, but you will have to periodically adjust it. Some people like the adjustment. To others, it is a pain in the neck. My personal preference, especially for a street car, would be to switch to the later fork, without the hole, and to switch to the self adjusting slave.

As Dieaszd stated, and I concur based upon talking with a couple of Z Racers, the stock Nissan L-24 clutch is plenty strong for use with an L-28.

The other thing to consider is, what diff are you going to use? The stock 3.36 R180 will work. However, you will not get the most out of the new L-28. You would get much more satisfying performance with a 3.9 or 4.11 diff. Diffs can be had in R180 or R200. An R180 will bolt right up. To go to an R200, you will need to switch to a 280Z moustashe bar and drive shaft. Again, this assumes that you have an early '71.

For what it is worth, I put the following into my early '71:

F54 block, L-28, bored .40 over

'83 5 spd.

240 mm stock flywheel and Nissan clutch from a 280Z 2+2

Switched to self adjustable slave

R180 (open diff) with 4.11 gears. Picked it for the gearing, lower weight, and not having to deal with the R200 changes.

This was my track car. It had as you say very "peppy" performance. The stock clutch withstood plenty of abuse and was never a problem.

Another consideration, with that new found horse power, is to upgrade the brakes!!

Hope this helps,

Marty

Edited May 10, 2012 by Marty Rogan

[tlorber]

Yeah I was going to mention the brakes as well. Going fast is good-stopping fast is better. Did you have any plans to upgrade? If so, just curious what exactly they were. I ask because it is the next project after I get my bumpers welded up and rechromed.

Also wondering why you are putting in a 4 speed instead of a 5 speed. It is definitely nice to have more gears-especially the combo of a close ratio 5 speed, shorter diff and the overdrive... best of all worlds. I think at 80mph I'm ticking at about 2,800 rpm with a 3.7 diff.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Well I fight with staying original and modifying my car all the time. I struggle to keep it as much a 71 Datsun as I can, as I like the personality. Truthfully, I chose the type B 4 speed unit for no other reason. My car is a 7/71, and they phased in the B types in that ballpark, as 72's probably started being manufactured around august or September if I had to guess. So I justified it to myself that I could still sort of pass this off as an original transmission to myself at least!

Now as for brakes, YESSIR. I am am currently running the upgraded pads and shoes on my car, but I am most likely going to buy the 4 piston kit from MSA while I am rebuilding the whole front end. Remember all of this is to get ready for the TEXAS 1000 vintage rally. So 1000 miles of quick stops means that even though my current brakes and booster are new, having 4 pots in the front is never a bad idea. I am going to replace my hardened TC rod bushings with the other pivot ball kit MSA sells, and I will probably replace the tie rods and ball joints while I am at it. Might as well.

So from what I am reading since I have a 240Z slave cylinder, 240Z clutch fork and 240Z master cylinder, I should just order a 240Z clutch kit (Thanks Diseazd). My slave is adjustable with the hole in the fork as Marty suggested. It has worked wonderfully, and is less than 2 years old as I just went through all of that. However, if I go with a 280Z 225mm clutch then I need to find a new clutch fork and slave cylinder. I am not running the stock flywheel, so I have no idea what thickness it is. But this is a good rules of thumb thread.

RULES of THUMB for CLUTCH SELECTION

Keep slave cylinder, clutch fork, and clutch collar matched to the clutch you want to use.

Use a 225 mm coupe clutch kit for most applications unless you really need more grip and then you can upgrade to a 2+2 clutch

[Marty Rogan]

Well I fight with staying original and modifying my car all the time. I struggle to keep it as much a 71 Datsun as I can, as I like the personality. Truthfully, I chose the type B 4 speed unit for no other reason. My car is a 7/71, and they phased in the B types in that ballpark, as 72's probably started being manufactured around august or September if I had to guess. So I justified it to myself that I could still sort of pass this off as an original transmission to myself at least!

Now as for brakes, YESSIR. I am am currently running the upgraded pads and shoes on my car, but I am most likely going to buy the 4 piston kit from MSA while I am rebuilding the whole front end. Remember all of this is to get ready for the TEXAS 1000 vintage rally. So 1000 miles of quick stops means that even though my current brakes and booster are new, having 4 pots in the front is never a bad idea. I am going to replace my hardened TC rod bushings with the other pivot ball kit MSA sells, and I will probably replace the tie rods and ball joints while I am at it. Might as well.

So from what I am reading since I have a 240Z slave cylinder, 240Z clutch fork and 240Z master cylinder, I should just order a 240Z clutch kit (Thanks Diseazd). My slave is adjustable with the hole in the fork as Marty suggested. It has worked wonderfully, and is less than 2 years old as I just went through all of that. However, if I go with a 280Z 225mm clutch then I need to find a new clutch fork and slave cylinder. I am not running the stock flywheel, so I have no idea what thickness it is. But this is a good rules of thumb thread.

RULES of THUMB for CLUTCH SELECTION

Keep slave cylinder, clutch fork, and clutch collar matched to the clutch you want to use.

Use a 225 mm coupe clutch kit for most applications unless you really need more grip and then you can upgrade to a 2+2 clutch

One small clarification: You can use the early version clutch fork and slave cylinder with a 225mm 280Z clutch. Functionally they do the same job. You just have to adjust it once in a while. If that does not bother you, then use it. For as many times as you have adjusted your SU's, I can't imagine a slave cylinder adjustment would be a big deal, !!!

Marty

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Man that is so true!

Ha ha

Also the term collar keeps getting used

Is that the same thing I would call the sleeve which pushes the throw out bearing.

Edited May 10, 2012 by Zedyone_kenobi