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Long time member, new job with DIYAutotune.com


billyjarrell

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@Fast

- Yes. I have an auxiliary connector that will let you hook up the following connections.

- O2 in

- Speed Sensor in (will let us calculate MPG on the fly)

- Crank Position Sensor in

- 3 ignition outputs (this and crank are because I want to play with wasted spark & run distributerless)

- Switched relay driver (earmarked for external fuel pump but could be used for something different)

- can bus

These will exit on the rear of the housing (pointing at the firewall) with a suitable automotive connector. It is an option you can purchase from the start, or upgrade later. However, if someone upgrades later, I'll ship them the internal cable/connectors & they will have to machine the hole in the back of their case for the connector. If they want that from the start, I'll machine their case on install. Maybe a pigtail with a free-hanging connector would be better as it would only require a 1/2" hole/strain relief. Not as clean, but easier for the owner to add later.

Lenny

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  • 3 weeks later...

Lenny, lately I've been having real headaches keeping a good, steady idle speed. My BCDD still isn't happy. My AAR is somewhat flakey and probably needs replacement. My A/C fast idle vacuum solenoid (term?) is really hard to adjust right. The interaction of the three is getting somewhat crazy. I've simply been running with a too-high idle.

What would be GREAT would be a modern IACV in place of the AAR. Of course there are no stand-along IACVs (to my knowledge), and cobbling one up seems a bit much (for me), owing to the need for a quadrature output. Any chance of your new ECU having IACV support?

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  FastWoman said:
What would be GREAT would be a modern IACV in place of the AAR. Of course there are no stand-along IACVs (to my knowledge), and cobbling one up seems a bit much (for me), owing to the need for a quadrature output.

I was messing with the throttle body on a Toyota Highlander and I don't believe the IACV uses a quadrature signals. IIRC, there were only two wires to it and I think it used a DC signal in conjunction with a permanent magnet. Analog like. :bulb: Wasn't "stand alone" as it was an application specific wart on the bottom of the throttle body, but it wasn't stepper. Looking at the design, it seemed to me that it would be difficult to control. Must be a fast loop...

Another tidbit... My AAR was weird, and I finally figured out that it was intermittent. Finally failed hard and then was easy to diagnose.

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I'd love to see somebody come up with an easy way to put a turbo ZX engine in to a '75-'78 Z. I have little to no wiring skills so a true plug and play would be awesome. I'd rather not use any of the old, stock wiring for the conversion so a premade and labeled harness with good instructions is high on my want list. Willing to pay good money for a good product.

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  • 4 months later...

This thread is a little old but I wanted to express my agreement with you Jimbob. I emailed Billy, hopefully I will get a good reply. I've got 2 Z's ones the old faithfull carbed L24. The other is undergoing the L28ET swap. The swap is done, motor will start and idle, but the lean condition is also an issue of mine. It pops and backfires as soon as throttle is applied. All new fuel system, all new lines, pump, injectors, regulator, etc etc. The gremlins are in the wiring. I've ordered all the plugs I can source to re do them. If that doesn't fix my lean condition instead of dropping anymore money in this crap stock set up i will probably go MS. I'll spend as much time doing that set up as I have troubleshooting this one, maybe less. It seems intimidating to me but support seems good. I couldn't even begin to know where to start ordering something from them there are so many components. One note, I see when guys have ordered these units they have to solder jumpers on the circuit boards and jump pins, that seems a little more than most want to do, I solder alot, I've soldered alot of gauge pods for people in old trucks and busses but that percentage of failure just has me worried If i do have to go with a MS. I wouldn't want to ruin a brand new $350 board.

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  MotoManMike said:
This thread is a little old but I wanted to express my agreement with you Jimbob. I emailed Billy, hopefully I will get a good reply. I've got 2 Z's ones the old faithfull carbed L24. The other is undergoing the L28ET swap. The swap is done, motor will start and idle, but the lean condition is also an issue of mine. It pops and backfires as soon as throttle is applied. All new fuel system, all new lines, pump, injectors, regulator, etc etc. The gremlins are in the wiring. I've ordered all the plugs I can source to re do them. If that doesn't fix my lean condition instead of dropping anymore money in this crap stock set up i will probably go MS. I'll spend as much time doing that set up as I have troubleshooting this one, maybe less. It seems intimidating to me but support seems good. I couldn't even begin to know where to start ordering something from them there are so many components. One note, I see when guys have ordered these units they have to solder jumpers on the circuit boards and jump pins, that seems a little more than most want to do, I solder alot, I've soldered alot of gauge pods for people in old trucks and busses but that percentage of failure just has me worried If i do have to go with a MS. I wouldn't want to ruin a brand new $350 board.

Mike,

I run MS1 on my Z. Way more power and way easier to find gremlins (which I had.). Anyhow I don't remember jumping any pins on the circuit board but I could be wrong. The support for this is pretty insense (I've built one of these completely from scratch now) so its all there (on the internet or from the company). That being said if/when you get the its all about taking your time and doing it right. Tuning is by far the most tedious part at least from my stand point. If you need any help builing/tuning one of these things shoot me an email (me) and I'll help if the guys and DIY can't.

Thanks

Jan

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  • 4 months later...

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