does this look bad?

[Captain Obvious]

Not just the bushings, but the rest of the ball and socket joints as well.

Yeah, I hear ya about doing your own work. Alignments are one of the few things I pay others to do as well. I've toyed with the prospect of the do-it-yourself alignments, but so far, I've just paid. However, that said... The Z would be a very simple place to start as toe is the only adjustable parameter.

Something I forgot to mention before... When you do replace that joint, here's an alternative to the "counting the turns" trick to getting your alignment close enough to drive to the shop. Note that I've not tried this on a Z so I don't know if there's enough room to get up in there, but it's worked on other cars.

Pull the cotter pin, loosen the nut, and pop the tapered bolt out of the receiving part, but do not yet unscrew the end from the rod. Clean up the tapered bolt and the corresponding hole, and put it back together again without the nut. You can usually just squeeze the bolt into the hole with your hand and it will stay in place. Use the nut if it won't stay together without it. Then put the wheel back on and lower the car to the ground.

With the tire on the ground nothing should move and you can preserve your alignment. So now undo the bolt again and this time unscrew it from the tie rod. Then when you screw the new tie rod into place, you can thread it on a little at a time and keep checking when the tapered bolt fits smoothly into the hole. When the it fits smoothly all the way home into the hole, you should be close to where you started from. Lock the end in place and tighten everything up. It probably won't be perfect, but you should be able to get to the alignment shop without ruining your tires.

Does that make sense?

[cygnusx1]

Bad grease!

I want to put in my experience on this one. I too had the boots disintegrate right off of a set of new tie rods. It took about 1.5 years for it to happen. It was due to using inappropriate grease. Whatever grease I had used, dissolved the rubber. Subsequently, I only use Mobile1 synthetic grease. FWIW, you can buy poly tie rod boots. They are usually included when you buy a full poly bushing kit for the car.

I have always done my own tape measure, string, and test drive alignments with much success on a Z car. Use the center steering lock as a reference.

Edited April 2, 2012 by cygnusx1

[Jetaway]

I read somewhere to use a adjustable shower curtain rod from inside of the tires across to the other beforehand then after install recheck with the curtain rod, now that's Shade Tree but if it works?

This was recommended to me by a local owner a couple of years ago. Sounded great until I went and tried to find a screw-adjusted shower curtain rod. Couldn't find one, they were all spring-loaded.

Chris

[Jetaway]

I just put on 555 ball joints that I got from Motorsports. Japanese manufactured and they look quality. Cost the same as Moog or Raybestos (nothing wrong with either of them) from RockAuto.

Chris

[LeonV]

I just put on 555 ball joints that I got from Motorsports. Japanese manufactured and they look quality. Cost the same as Moog or Raybestos (nothing wrong with either of them) from RockAuto.

Chris

The Beck Arnley branded ball joints from Rockauto are the same "555" manufacturer and cost less than Moog or Raybestos.

[grantf]

I went with moog both for the tie rod ends and the ball joints. $129.89 for both sides Really not a bad price considering safety. I read through some older post regarding ball joints from msa, It seems that the moog parts are highly recomended, the parts shipped this morning.

Any advise on removing the old parts? I am looking at using a pickle fork if needed as I will not be reusing the old parts.

[grantf]

Well I got most of the left side apart today. I am stuck now. Having a bitch of a time getting the tie rod end and lock nut loose. It looks like a reverse thread. I will take a torch to it tomorrow. on top of that the two bolts to the steering knuckle got buggered. So now new bolts search and a tap to chase the threads. I have no idea how they got buggered by just removing them. Arrg!

[grantf]

Done. My Z is going in for a front end alignment tomorrow. The second side was easer of course. One thing that I learned is that it is way easer to loosen the tie rod lock nut before separating the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

Edited April 9, 2012 by grantf

[Captain Obvious]

Glad you got em replaced. Only thing worse than working on old rusty stuck in place suspension bits is working on old rusty stuck in place exhaust bits. :sick:

Did you do anything to try to preserve the alignment to get it to the shop? I ask because I've seen tires ruined in just a few miles if the alignment is really off. Unless the shop is right down the block, you might want to stop a mile or so from the house and feel the tire treads for heat. If they're really hot on one edge or the other, than you might be at risk.

[grantf]

Glad you got em replaced. Only thing worse than working on old rusty stuck in place suspension bits is working on old rusty stuck in place exhaust bits. :sick:

Did you do anything to try to preserve the alignment to get it to the shop? I ask because I've seen tires ruined in just a few miles if the alignment is really off. Unless the shop is right down the block, you might want to stop a mile or so from the house and feel the tire treads for heat. If they're really hot on one edge or the other, than you might be at risk.

Good to know.

The firestone is just one block away. But I did count the rotation while replacing the rod ends. I did a short test drive to the firestone, it handeled and tracked well.

but now I found something else: I have a leeking brake hard line the one leading to the right front caliper close to the battery. I will be posting on this new discovery soon.

[grantf]

Sorry to keep responding to my own thread but I thought I would say that the car is back from being alignment and I replaced the brake hard line (what a PITA!).

I have taken it on a short test drive and it seems to handle much better. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Working on the front steering and suspension ended up being a little easer then I thought, there were a few snags but that is always to be expected.

I did note the condition of the bushings, not good at all, so that is coming next. I am going to try to go with rubber as much as possible as I am not racing the car and would prefer a smooth over harsh ride. Thanks again.

[catfish_wiskerz]

Dude,

Just replace all... It definitely isnt good.

Cat:beard