Just ruined my fuel tank w/ POR15

[theczechone]

Ok, so yesterday i spent all day sloshing around chemicals in my rusty tank, I made sure to follow the instructions as good as I possibly could. The only thing is that i could not drain all of the excess sealer out because there is a dent where my drain plug is and the inlet hole won't let you drain everything.

Today I looked into the tank and saw that there were a number of places where the sealer is not sticking :mad: . So what do I do now?

1. Look for another tank and go through all this again???

2. Do a fuel cell which will stick out from the bottom and will make me cut out my spare tire well???

Is there a way to remove/dissolve POR15, I was under the impression that it's indestructible.

Thanks

[grantf]

what year is youre car?

[MotoManMike]

Send it to moyer

[theczechone]

my car is 01/70

and shipping alone due to size and weight would be over a hundred dollars, don't know if I can justify that compared to a small fuel cell that would fit next to the wheel well. Thank you for giving me another option thou, I did email the guy for a quote.

[Jeff G 78]

Sorry to hear about your tank, but there is no way you followed the directions EXACTLY. I have done two tanks with POR-15 and both times, it took three full days to complete the job. You MUST follow the directions to the letter. There is virtually no chance it could be done properly in one day. Now that you have a mess, call POR-15 and see what they recommend. I recall reading something on their site about how to remove their sealer if needed.

[grantf]

my car is 01/70

and shipping alone due to size and weight would be over a hundred dollars, don't know if I can justify that compared to a small fuel cell that would fit next to the wheel well. Thank you for giving me another option thou, I did email the guy for a quote.

Oh, to bad my spare 77 tank wont fit.

[theczechone]

Ok so it's possible i did not do this correctly but here are the steps i had taken,

The tank was pulled about a week ago and all the fuel drained out evaporated out

- rinsed the tank out with water

- let it sit in the sun ( 86 degrees outside) to dry a bit before marine ready

- mixed in marine clean with a qrt of hot water out of my tap and sloshed for 20+ min

- rinsed the tank by running water through it for approximately 45min

- repeated the process with marine clean and another qrt of hot water

- rinsed for an hour with water

- tank sat for hour in the sun after draining rinse water (directions specified that tank did not have to be completely dry before metal ready)

- poured in metal ready sloshed vigorously and than I let it sit in the tank on all 4 sides for 30 minutes (total of 2 hours)

- rinsed about 30 min, poured as much of the liquids out

- bought a heat gun, and let it blow into the tank on high for 30 minutes until all of the tank was hot to touch.

- opened the sealer

- mixed for about 10 minutes or until the color seamed uniform

- poured it into the tank and rolled it around...

I started at 10 am finished at 9 pm...

side notes :

- tank looked amazing after the marine clean

- the bottles of marine clean were leaking upon arrival from MSA, not much seemed to have leaked out so i didn't pay much attention to it

- humidity is through the roof where I live

please tell me where I went wrong as I know I must have, people use this often and with a lot of success

[Jeff G 78]

I'm guessing it wasn't bone dry and the residual moisture was your downfall. When I did mine, I had to work really hard to get the tank completely dry. I used a heat gun on and off for several hours while continually rotating the tank different ways to help get the moisture out. Once I was sure it was dry, I left the tank inside for several days just to be sure. I then used the heat gun one more time before I added the sealer to the tank.

[ZCurves]

Is the coating bubbling or coming off of the surface - or did you just miss some spots? If you missed some spots, couldn't you just get some additional POR and then dump that in and work it into place?? If this is not going to work, then I would find a radiator shop and have it soaked. POR is not impervious to being removed, it is pretty tuff stuff - but there are solvents that will remove it and I am sure that a radiator shop will have what it takes.

[EScanlon]

POR sells a stripper that will remove cured POR.

However a distinction needs to be made here, are you referring to POR or to their U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer which is their Gas Tank Sealer product?

While POR is very sensitive to humidity in the air and surfaces (I've seen it "boil" due to humidity in the air) I don't know if the Tank Sealer is as sensitive.

But, I don't know of many paints that will tolerate a moist or damp surface.

E

[a7dz]

Sounds like it was contaminated some how. It took me three days to do my tank. It looked like glass inside. I poured the excess fluid out through the hole for the sending unit. There was some extra in the tank that I rotated to the top. I did not want to seal the drain plug permanently into place.

[theczechone]

I got lucky, met a great z guy in Alabama on Sunday, and he has a rust free tank that he is willing to trade for a spare set of wheels that came with my car.

I don't think i want to deal with removing this stuff. It will be more expense and work out of my pocket, if it even works. Thanks for your support guys