This thread is really getting me worked up to get my Mikunis going. Sounds like my shorty manifold was the only option if you want a cold air box since things are so tight with the Webers.

I also wonder if the Mikunis will be easier to dial in since they have accelerator pumps.

I hope you spend some money to dial your Webers in on a dyno, I think it would be worth the money, plus interesting reading for us!

Webers have accelerator pumps too, the only difference between the two being that Weber uses a piston-in-cylinder pump while Mikuni uses a diaphragm type.

Dyno tuning may help, but diligently using a wideband should get you 97% of the way there. The wideband essentially pays itself off!

Yup, the wideband is spot on the best investment you can make with triples.

I have been reading more of Francks info, and I do not think I need to go bigger on my primary jet. I am running a 130 now, and from everything I have seen that is large for 400cc of cylinder. I may have too large of an air corrector which directly effects how much vacuum it takes to move the fuel up the emulsion tube cavity. It is more of a vacuum controlled bleed off. Franck says NEVER use the air corrector to correct the AFR on the top end directly, that is the main fuel jets job. But the air corrector will control when the main circuit comes in.

Yup, the wideband is spot on the best investment you can make with triples.

I have been reading more of Francks info, and I do not think I need to go bigger on my primary jet. I am running a 130 now, and from everything I have seen that is large for 400cc of cylinder. I may have too large of an air corrector which directly effects how much vacuum it takes to move the fuel up the emulsion tube cavity. It is more of a vacuum controlled bleed off. Franck says NEVER use the air corrector to correct the AFR on the top end directly, that is the main fuel jets job. But the air corrector will control when the main circuit comes in.

Exactly! The main really only controls WOT mixture, the rest of the dynamic range is controlled by the e-tube, idle and transition circuits. This is why the e-tube is so critical in proper operation of these carbs. It's properties control the mixture across the engine's dynamic range.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdamico/7101921511/in/set-72157605246065883/?likes_hd=1

hope this works!

And this is the old gal at the local Friendswood texas annual car show, where she took 2nd in the pre 1979 import class. Yeah. Lost to a stinking 1954 beetle with about 50k in modifications to it. one ugly beetle. But I did beat a nice turbo 912

Edited April 22, 201212 yr by Zedyone_kenobi

Got my manifolds all nicely installed and the steering knunkle back together that I had to take apart to make room for the exhaust header. Went to install the first carb and the studs on the manifold are too short. No way to put on the nut and spring washer. Did one bolt and the washer was squeezed flat and the Nyloc nut was only 1/2 on. Had to take all the LocTited studs off and redo them. Why didn't they say " Be sure to leave 1 1/4 inch stud exposed from the surface of the intake manifold."!!!???:mad: Much easier to work on the bench instead of bent over inside the engine bay. After that the carbs went in quickly.

I had a heat shield fabbed from aluminum: 21" x 6" with a 3/4" lip in the back bent at 120 degrees so the shield drops down from the carbs at a 30 degree angle. I drilled out one hole for each carb to mount and cut out sections for the other 3 mounting studs. Don't need 6 nuts holding on a piece of aluminum. Had to do a little hand cuting with tin snips and wire cutters to get it to fit under the carbs. Used Mike W's idea of the shield, a washer, spring washer and nut. With the shield angled downa bit I could fairly easily reach the washers and nuts by feel and tighten with an ratchet extension.

Installed the linkage per their spec. Had to move where my stock linkage bolts to the firewall over about 1 1/2" so it is now a fairly straight shot to the carb linkage. Figure fewer angles the better. First try the floored gas pedal equaled full open throttle.

I'm done for about 2 weeks as have to attend to family stuff, plus I haven't yet ordered all my braided SS, AN fittings, regulator and all that fun stuff

Zedyone

Your car looks awesome,I wish my Z looked that good. There is nothing,I would change on your car. Great looking car. It also sounds good. No busting out with the Webers.

Thanks hunter, love that blue color on yours!

Stephen, you have turned a good Z into an outstanding Z. When I first saw your Z, I was impressed. I cannot begin to imagine the before and after of your efforts. From appearance to performance, you have done it all and have done it well.

So I guess most folks running the triples are just putting a breather filter on the crankcase tube? I was trying to science out a way to run the PCV with some vacuum, but I have noticed guys just doing away with this by putting a breather on the pipe. Any negative effects doing this?

Since I am going to run a vacuum log I could put a PCV valve on the end of it to hook up to manifold vacuum, but rather not if I don't have too.

That means more than you know coming from you Frank. Thanks very much!

I will post more videos of my car once I get the Webers dialed in. Actually, you just gave me an idea for a new thread!!

new air correctors have been ordered!! I picked up some 160's, which is a smaller size than my 170s' which should be allow my mains to come in a tad faster.

Edited April 23, 201212 yr by Zedyone_kenobi

So I guess most folks running the triples are just putting a breather filter on the crankcase tube? I was trying to science out a way to run the PCV with some vacuum, but I have noticed guys just doing away with this by putting a breather on the pipe. Any negative effects doing this?

Since I am going to run a vacuum log I could put a PCV valve on the end of it to hook up to manifold vacuum, but rather not if I don't have too.

If I had a vacuum log, I'd definitely do it. You can put the PCV valve either into the log or remove the breather tube from the block and stick a PCV valve in there. I believe stonehenge69 did this on his stroker, using a Mistubishi PCV valve.

Drawing out blowby gasses by vacuum is a good thing, and will not only improve performance but keep your oil cleaner as well.

Here it is: http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/pcv_system_triple_carbs...pics_686437.0.html

That's what I thought and that's what I'll do!!

I will just hook it up to one end of the log.