What do you think this S30 is worth? 73' 240z

[Z-man]

Hi Guys,

New to the forums and looking to pick up my first S30 this weekend, but need help valuing it.

- 73' all original blue metallic exterior, beige interior. Car has 31k original documented miles on it. Basically sat in storage untouched for 25 years or so, until purchased by current owner who planned to restore it. Only rust on the car is a small spot on the drivers side firewall, the rest of the car is rust free.

- Not currently running. Current Owner (2nd owner) said he rebuilt the carbs but are not sync'd and although it starts up and idles fine its not driveable. All of my past project cars have been fuel injected so i am in the dark when it comes to carbeurators.

- Car comes with a few NOS parts that were never installed including new upholstery, badges and exhaust and more.

- The paint is in pretty good shape. Again the car sat in a storage locker for many year so It does need a bit of cleaning up. I also imagine it will need a bit of basic maintenance like replacement of fuel lines, tank flush etc...

Im basically looking for a good car to use for a long term resto mod to enjoy on the weekends.

Any idea on what it may be worth given this little bit of info?

Thanks in advance!

Edited April 4, 2012 by Z-man

[psdenno]

Allow me to be the first to ask, "Got a picture or two?". New upholstery kit and 31K miles don't seem to mesh. What's the asking price? Any maintenance records? Have you checked the body panels with a magnet to detect body filler? Starts, idles, doesn't move? Transmission? Ask lots of questions.

Dennis

[ollie]

No way the only rust is on the firewall....get it up in the air and start investigating. One popular spot to look is the front of the rocker panel below the cowl drain. Rust starts there and then spreads to down the inside of the rocker. Also a popular spot is in the reinforcement panel on the front inner...

[Z-man]

Hi,

Thanks for the quick reply. I too am confused on why it would need upholstery. He sent me pictures of the original title, and says he has other service documents but the interior definitly does not look low mileage and is pretty dirty (given it is the beige interior option). Either the car was not taken car of early in life, the mileage is really 130k or maybe was not stored properly. Surprisingly the dash does look to be in good shape.

Here are some pictures.

Thanks again

I am going to go over the entire car for rust. I really appreciate everyones advice on how to inspect the car!

Edited April 4, 2012 by Z-man

[LeonV]

Maybe it's just the photo, but it looks like there are serious camber issues on the rear wheel. I'd check for damage, i.e. bent parts, frame, etc.

[ollie]

Is he claiming it is all the original paint? For some reason it looks like the muffler has overspray on it...looks like a decent strating point for a restoration though.

[motorman7]

Wow, nice looking car! Love the flattops as they are the correct carb for that year. In spite of what others here may tell you here (usually those who have never owned a Z with flattops), they run pretty well when cleaned up. Since it idles but doesn’t run well, I am guessing that the little accelerator pump on the side of the carbs should be looked at and replaced. Could also be old fuel so you will need to clean out the entire fuel system. I had gas ‘globs’ in my flat tops when first purchased. Car ran great once I cleaned them out.

The color combo is very cool. Looks like the back panel around the tail lights has been re-painted which makes me wonder what else has been redone. I would keep it as original as possible. For every dollar you use to modify the car, you can deduct that from the current worth of the car. Car can be worth anywhere from $4K to $10K dependent upon rust, previous repairs and other items that are not visible in the pics.

Rich

PS: a little clean-up on the motor would be sweet

Edited April 4, 2012 by motorman7

[72 OJ]

The shift knob has a lot of ware , so the mileage is questionable ,IMO. Good luck in the purchase and be aware that Z's are addictive On what to pay for this 73 , you are in CA and prices are all over the board, check recent sales on Ebay for references and local paper for asking prices,this might help in your purchase.

Edited April 4, 2012 by 72 OJ

[H4LIGHTS]

Did the seller give you an asking price for the car?

[Carl Beck]

If the car checked out to actually be rust free and had 31K miles... Cleaned up and put in fine running condition - - - it could easily be $14K to $16K today. Even as it sits with some issues related to how it starts and runs; and some cosmetic issues ...I'd be a buyer in a heart beat at $8K to $10K. If I looked it over and under - carefully and really really liked the car - I'd pay $12K..

I would always be willing to pay a few thousand dollars more - up front - for a solid, unmolested, stock/original car... Especially if I planned to refresh or restore it. To me - "The CAR" is more important than "the Deal". I've seen many guys pass on a near perfect car - just because it wasn't "the Deal" they wanted. Then they kept looking for a year or two or three more.. all to save a couple grand. That's fine if it is "the DEAL" that one is looking for. When I find the right car - I buy it. I don't have years to wait for a couple thousand dollars. {not in todays money}.

Seat upholstery - left sitting in storage - and left to collect dust/dirt - the threads can and do rot. So even if the vinyl is good - they start to split at the seams. Kept clean and cared for this doesn't happen.

I agree - looking at the rear - the tail light finisher has been refinished - and it looks like overspray on the muffler. The front bumper is missing rubber trim and the rear bumper has a dent in the center - no big deal - but you can spend a couple grand getting them made perfect again.

What to take note of - while you are looking the car over.

Make yourself a WRITTEN LIST to take with you - if you don't - you'll remember things later that you wish you had thought of while you were there. You get to talking to the seller.. and things drop though the crack - you get distracted - - -TAKE A WRITTEN LIST.. and check each thing off as you look with a critical eye.

I won't list the usual things like Glass, Weather seals/gaskets, condition of the paint & trim, condition of the interior plastic panels, condition of the suspension bushings, condition of the suspension components {clean/black or covered with surface rust etc}, age of the tires, all associated original documentation like Window Sticker, Bill of Sale, Owners manual and Service Booklet {stuff that comes with low mileage one owner cars), original exhaust system in place, etc etc.....

but some minor things that can cost a lot of money - specific to the 240Z's now...

- look at the chrome trim on the tail lights - is it perfect or pitted? {NOS set $1200.00}

- look at the rear wheel arches - are the original spot welds there - or covered over?

- look at the dash - - any cracks {NOS Dash $1800.00}

- look at the door panels - if they are in as new condition - could save you $650.00 or more

- look carefully at all the weather stripping - with 31K miles it should all be just fine...

- look all the wiring harnesses over - make sure they aren't hacked or repaired poorly

-

- everyone else can start adding their specific items to look at...

good luck,

Carl B.

[Z-man]

Thanks Carl, I really appreciate the reply. This looks to be a great forum. I will keep you guys updated.

[Z-man]

PS: a little clean-up on the motor would be sweet

The engine bay is beautiful. Is all of the zinc plating correct to factory specs?