Wow, that oil pan gasket job that I thought was going to be easy was a total bust!

I ended up taking the pan back off because I could not get the gasket holes to line up with the holes in the block and pan. RTV sealer all over everything, including my helper. Are there any tricks I should be using? I had the whole pan/gasket combo glued together with sealer, but it slipped around during the install. Maybe I could get some really long bolts and thread them down through the block (where that is possible) as temporary guides. Now I have to order another gasket and get more sealer too. More room between the block and the crossmember would help line it up.

One more item is reinstalling the rear main seal. Should I just give it a light coat of sealer and tap it in with a rubber mallet? I don't have the special installation tool that is 50 mm in diameter.

Thanks for your ideas,

Gary

The new Black Dragon catalog shows 'Oil Pan Snap-Ups', pg 96 #53-506, set of 4 for $6.95. They look like a plastic 'kleco' type tool to hold the pan and gasket in place while attaching the bolts. I have no idea if they work like shown or not, first time I've seen them in their catalog. Might be something to look into for the price.

Bonzi Lon

Those look pretty clever. I will give them a try and maybe go prowl the local hardware store for other options. Now to go clean up the mess!

Thanks Again,

Gary

Hi Gary, Make sure that the pan is level around the holes. They can get out of shape and make the seal not work. You can use a hammer and a square piece of steel to do this. Speaking from experience, if you don't do this the pan will leak. I would not use RTV on the pan gasket. It could lead to problems if it gets in the pan/oil pickup. Use gasket adhesive instead and wait until it dries and the gasket is stuck to the pan and doesn't move. Are you trying to do this with the engine in or out of the car? If in, you need to get the car far enough up in the air to work efficiently. If out. flip the engine upside down if it's on a stand(beware of oil drips). FWIW this job is much easier with the engine out of the car and on an engine stand.Line up the 4 corner bolts first then do a few more opposite each other. Don't tighten them down until you have them all started. Tighten them down little by little and opposite each other just like with a cylinder head. Don't tighten them too much or they will snap off (ask me how I know this) making them a bear to get out. Follow the FSM for torque settings. My torque wrench didn't go that low so I had to guess. They really only need to be snugged up tight. Good luck.

Cheers, Mike

PS: do NOT use RTV on your rear seal, either.

Edited April 7, 201213 yr by Pop's Z

Which gasket are you using? The Nissan factory cork gasket, or the competition gasket? If you use the comp gasket, it's really important to take Pop's Z's advice. The cork is a lot more forgiving. I don't use any RTV and I use cork......never had a problem.

The engine is in the car, so the first order of business is to get some additional clearance to install the gasket. I just ordered a new Victor/Reinz cork/rubber gasket which was $13 compared to the cork at $6. Sounds like I need to get some gasket adhesive rather than the RTV so no little worms of silicon get into an oil passage. One last question: should I put adhesive on the block side of the gasket too? If I do not, it makes installation a lot easier.

Thanks!

With the engine in, you've got a job. If you haven't already, you'll need to drop the sway bar and maybe the oil pump (can't remember for sure). No adhesive on the block, just make sure the mating surface is squeaky clean with zero old-gasket-residue. Get the first corner bolt in, as Pop's Z said, followed by the bolt on the diagonal corner opposite and work your way around. I think it took me about three hours to do mine several years ago... or maybe it was 3 days!

Where did you get the Victor/Reinz gasket? It sounds like a nice gasket. Do you have pics? I usually use gasket adhesive on the pan side. You can spray it on the gasket and lay the pan on the gasket, adjusting the holes with a tooth pick until it sets up........Then you can get a few bolts started with the help of a friend. I installed mine without removing anything, or even raising the engine.

Edited April 7, 201213 yr by Diseazd

I ordered the gasket from Autozone, so they should be readily available. Mine will not arrive until Tuesday. I will post a photo.

As long as I don't have a sticky gasket facing the block during the install, I should be fine for clearance. I just cheat the pan around the oil pump suction with some help from my son.

I finally have all the RTV cleaned off of the block and the pan. Thanks so much for the advice.

Gary

I ordered the gasket from Autozone, so they should be readily available. Mine will not arrive until Tuesday. I will post a photo.

As long as I don't have a sticky gasket facing the block during the install, I should be fine for clearance. I just cheat the pan around the oil pump suction with some help from my son.

I finally have all the RTV cleaned off of the block and the pan. Thanks so much for the advice.

Gary

all I have the same issue I am referbing a 260z that my aunt gave me and I just noticed some oil underneath it. I think that I have to change the oil pan gasket and was wondering if there are issues that I should be aware of and can a average person do this? any and all advice would be very helpful.

thanks

Hey, you could get yourself a bunch of little 4mm (think that's the size) studs and covert the oil pan to studs and nuts. Then just push the gasket up onto the studs and follow suit with the oil pan ;-)

Don't forget that having the crank in a certain position allows for more clearance when wedging pan between the crossmember .