Hey,

Does anyone know if the wiring for the 280s and 240s are similar? Thanks, Bonnie

To a point.Your question is too general.What's on your mind Bonnie? Daniel

Hi,

Well I just got my car out of the shop and thought everything was fine till that evening when I was driving home, and the headlights got hot and shorted out. Now no headlights and it is still blowing fuses. I know the mechanic did something to the headlight wiring because it is on a pull switch underneath the dash (my ex-husband did that a couple of years ago) and it had fresh electrical tape on it when I picked the car up. My youngest son has a 280 and is going to take a look at it, just wants to know how they are for comparision.

Thanks, Bonnie

Yes ,The color codes are the same.So your is blowing both 10a fuses on the fuse panel?Make sure they are 10a.It's etched on the metal end. Next check the rating and voltage on the switch.Did your ex cut the wires going to the factory switch or just attach his fix to them?How is the added switch attached to the wiring?Is it just twisted wires or what.Next don't blame the poor mechanic for trying to make chicken salad from chicken sh*t.We know it was less than correct when he started.Where is the switch getting its power.Did he go right to the battery? What size wire is feeding the switch. Daniel

Hi,

I know that the fuses are the correct amp but I don't know anything about how he did the wiring. One thing for sure, it has given me trouble ever since he put it there. Do you think the switch itself could be bad? I asked my ex and he said no. Thanks for the info. Take care, Bonnie

We both know odds are the problem is with the patch job.The reason I ask about the switch configuration is this.If one homemade wire is feeding the switch we know we have two 10A circuits to feed.Thats 20a or #12 minimum wire.Also if the switch is rated less than 20a or if it reads A.C. only that could cause too much resistance and blow the fuses or worse start a fire.Same with wires just twisted together and taped.Someone with the proper knowledge needs to look at that.Oh yeah Bonnie,I got a little laugh from your last post.The way I read it was you ask the guy that did this wrong from the start if the switch was bad and you have faith in his call?? Read it outloud to your self.I think you'll see what I mean. Sorry I couldn't help more. Daniel

Looks like I am still learning everyday what a @#^*#*!!!!!! jerk he is!!!!

Whoa!! My point was the quality or lack of correct info. It wasn't meant to try to take Dr Phils job! You said the lights got hot and blew the fuses.What didyou mean hot and where.Was it the switch that got hot?

Sometimes I get a little carried away. The switch itself that is dangling underneath the dash got hot and melted the tape. Before it was worked on this last time the headlights would usually work but you had to be careful and just barely pull the switch till the headlights came on, if you pulled it too far it would do the same thing (get hot and melt the tape and anything else that it came in contact with). Almost burned a hole in my skirt last time! That is what I have been referring to as "shorting out." Is that term correct, or did it just get hot. Please overlook me as I am "mechanically stupid." Bonnie

It's the switch Bonnie.Resistance causes heat.Thats what makes your burners on an elec.stove get hot.It could be it was the correct switch(although I doubt it) and was just connected by twisted wiring or such.The fact you have to be creative to turn it on speaks volumes. GameOver. Nextup? Daniel

Oh yeah,When I said" correct switch" of course I meant of correct electrical rating for the task. Daniel ----oh,you were absolutely correct in the term shorting out. YA DONE GOOD!!

I will have my son check the switch then. Sorry!! I made this a lot harder than it had to be. Next time, I will be much more specific. Thanks, you guys have the patience of saints!!!! Bonnie