Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

My Z build


Jonu

Recommended Posts

I'll take a pic of the two sockets I have later today. I have a 27mm Deepwell and a 1 1/16" regular socket. The walls look about as thin as they can be; maybe I should take a caliper and measure the bolt head. Either way though it seems like they just aren't fitting thee hole in the pulley. If it makes a difference the pulley is a 3 belt version. But there wasn't a belt on the forward most groove when I got it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here the link to the online parts manual. The folks at Courtesy Nissan Parts dept. are very resourceful at locating this stuff if it is available. You may be able to request shipping directly to your local dealer to reduce/avoid freight charges. You can also plug your p/n's directly into their search box (courtesyparts.com) to check availability. Anything you order directly from their site is generally discounted as deep as they will go.

Hope this helps.

Jim

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/tabid/1543/Default.aspx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it makes a difference the pulley is a 3 belt version. But there wasn't a belt on the forward most groove when I got it.

It might make a difference. The three pulley system is there to support the addition of an A/C compressor. When these Dealer Installed systems were introduced - the third pulley was added, but the original bolt was put back in place. The end result was that the original bolt was now too short to get as much purchase in the crank as it needed - and over time many of them came loose and backed out. That usually resulted in the damper pulley being damaged and/or the key way in the crank being damaged.

The "solution" was to take the original bolt out - before it backed itself out - and replace it with a slightly longer one - that was also slightly larger in diameter. Thus the crank had to be re-threaded, the larger bolt in stalled, and torqued to higher loads. It was also recommended that a thread lock {aka Locktite} be used.

If there is a larger bolt in there - you may have to buy a deep well, thin wall socket from one of the higher quality tool suppliers. They have thinner walls that are also stronger than most consumer brands.

FWIW,

Carl B.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, after getting back from emergency leave and a field exercise, I got a chance to get new fuel lines, a water outlet (the one on the car is rusted through), the gasket for the outlet housing and some gasket material so I can make a new gasket for the float bowl. I also got new belts to include the belt for the A/C which was missing when I bought it. The only reason I got belts was due to the fact that when I pulled one of the belts off it maintained the exact shape it had been in while on the car and felt hard as a rock. Hopefully, barring any unforeseen events, I hope to try starting the car in the next couple of weeks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the new belts on today. All I have left to do is change all the fluids (including the fuel), new spark plugs, and a new battery. One question though, I noticed that I have a set of the flat top carbs and rebuild kits for them as well. I've already cleaned my round top carbs that were on the car, but I'm wondering if I should put the float tops on instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Been a while since an update, but I haven't done much due to field exercises and working night shift. I'm hoping to start getting everything bolted back together on Sunday though and should be ready to start it up. I figure I'll jump start it and see if the current battery can hold a charge. I plan on replacing it but will be waiting until I get it some new tires. I refuse to drive it until they are replaced, they are atleast 6 years old and have tread just falling off. Probably should put new brake fluid in it as well. Any suggestion for what spec fluid I should use? And thanks for the tip on the carbs Carl.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to ask this; the new water outlet housing I bought from Autozone was a perfect fit in every way but one. The coolant temp sensor that was in the old housing is way to small to fit the new housing. It literally slides right in and falls right out. I'm thinking of pulling the housing back off and taking it to autozone so I can get one that fits because according to their system there isn't a coolant temp sensor (atleast that's what I think it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update: Going in to get new fluids to put in the car tomorrow. Figure I'll use 10W-30 oil, premixed coolant, and some Dexron 3 trans fluid. Now all I need to do is get some new tires and it'll be ready to go for a short drive to see what else needs to be addressed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today was a pretty good day. I was able to get the carbs reinstalled finally and re-ran the fuel lines again since i found that the original hardlines were still in place. That cut out quite a bit of rubber hose in the engine bay. So this is what's been accomplished so far: Carbs have been pulled apart, cleaned, and reinstalled, New rubber for the fuel lines, new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery (this battery looks like a midget compared to the old one). While I was fiddling with the fuel lines one of my friends loosened the drain plug on the fuel tank. That thing is dry as a bone. Once we got done with everything, I connected the battery to see if it would turn over. It just barely turned over, so we connected jumper cables from my truck to the car and it turned over easily. I think i could hear the fuel pump whirring as well. So i think I will be charging the battery before it gets installed for good. After that we just powered up the accessories so I could check and see what was working by just running the car off my trucks battery. I found that the headlights, turn signals, and reverse lights don't illuminate. Oddly enough though the hazard lights work perfectly. I also tried the radio and it worked just fine as well, I was able to tune in my favorite radio station without a problem. I still need to finish bolting the carburetors in place, but it was to dark to keep working on the car. I'm going to take a few pics tomorrow so i can get you guys to confirm that I have everything routed properly for the carbs since i reverted back to the stock fuel rail. I've also attached a picture of the new battery with a 1qt bottle of Powerade sitting becide it for scale:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]54288[/ATTACH]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.