Is it really an upgrade?

[IdahoKidd]

Am finally able to get back to putting my 240 back together. Is it really an upgrade from the stock rear drums to a ZX disc brake conversion? The pads are miniture. While the cost isn't horrible, it is still money. I know from experience on my Volvo that converting the fronts and then the rears, for average daily driving the installation of disk brakes did nothing but eliminate the pull to the right. They look cool and offer some bragging rights, but it doesn't stop any faster. Would those you who did this conversion, not some high end one, and not the track warriors, would you put the time and money into a ZX rear disc convesion?

Leonard

[cbuczesk]

I have a '72 240Z turbo, '74 260Z turbo and a '75 280Z ITS race car. Both turbo cars have the Toyota 4x4 front calipers/bigger rotors and rear disc brake upgrades. The 280Z has stock brakes. I haven't had the turbo cars on the track so it's a bit hard to compare but I drive them regularly. I can't say that I notice much of a difference in braking between the three cars. I highly doubt if you'll notice a difference on the street. We road race 70-78 Zs with stock brakes and they work well. If you want better braking a cheaper alternative might be different pads and shoes. I use Carbotech brakes.

Chuck

[Marty Rogan]

I agree with Chuck. I used drum brakes with the Toyota vented 4X4 upgrade in the front on my track car and they performed great. Just get some decent pads and make sure you adjust the rears properly. Rear disks are mostly for cheaper maintenance in my opinion.

Marty

[Jeff G 78]

Yep, rear drums are functionally just as good if (and only if) properly adjusted and they are harder to maintain than discs. The drums tend to corrode onto the hubs and getting to the bleed ports is harder than on the discs. Do it for looks and future time savings if you wish, but don't do it for better braking performance.

[72 OJ]

The RAW rear aluminum alloy drums with it's cooling fins, IMO give's the 240 it's unique period look ;)and as stated above are sufficient in performing .

Edited May 15, 2012 by 72 OJ

[black gold man]

The adjustment you are looking for is when you spin the tire by hand is it should go a half rotation of the wheel.

And the park brake adjustment method usually dose not work.

When rear is adjusted right the pedal will feel much better.

BGM

[LeonV]

Wow, actual good advice in a brake upgrade thread? Astounding!

[Carl Beck]

A disc/drum set up is just as good as a 4 wheel disc brake system.

Except - - - when your brake upgrade includes ventilated rotors, 4 piston calipers up front and rear discs. when you are doing the "Tail of the Dragon" at challenging speeds - or other canon carving etc. In that case "better performance" equals far less brake fade effect. Plus a reduction in wheel bearing grease melting and running out.

Except - - -when you are talking about brake feel/control - in that case I believe that you have better modulation control with the 4 piston calipers as well.

In terms of being the "best" at stopping the car from higher speeds in a shorter distance once - the disc/drum set up is about equal to any brake system upgrade - - because shorter stopping distances are more a function of traction than the clamping force of the brake system.

Upgrade to a 4 wheel disc ABS - and you have a better system in Panic situations than stock, for the average driver.

What actually stops your car - is the friction that can be maintained between the tires and the road. Tread compound and pattern, in addition to the load effect braking performance the most. in terms of stopping distance.

Bottom line - spend the money on better pads/shoes and better tires.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[GreenZZZ]

Bottom line - spend the money on better pads/shoes and better tires.

Agree with Carl. I'd say a full Arizona ZCar suspension/steering/coilovers should be done prior to doing discs. At that point your into hybrid-zcar territory.

[tlorber]

I know topic of biasing/proportioning is on other threads, but for those of you that have done the 4x4 vented upgrade and left the drums alone, did you get into dealing with having to re proportion the fluid?

[gnosez]

Have Wilwoods in the front and the SX in the rear of my 240. Gutted the stock prop valve and put in an aftermarket version. Overkill. Prop bias valve is set all the way to the front.

The 240 race car has the Z31 calipers up front and drums with Porterfield R4 shoes. Stock bias valve. Shoes last 2-3 years.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd put the Z31s on my street car instead.

Either way you need a 280 brake booster and a 15/16 or 1-inch MC.

[IdahoKidd]

Wow! Thanks for the honest opinions. Rear drums it is. Now to sell my new powder coated caliper holders.