Take just one circuit - turn on the headlights. Let's say that they are not illuminated. Now, start again at the battery and work all the way to the headlights, checking for power, keeping one lead of the tester on the negative post. This will test the +12V power to the lights.

If you have power to the lights using the above proceedure; solve your grounding problem.

The negative of the battery MUST be connected to the chassis. Common error after engine change-out.

Mike

I have the negative on the bellhop sing behind te starter per the FSM, is that not good enough?

I don't see a pic of the starter and the fusible link there. I would be pulling and yanking on every post on the back of the alternator and the starter. Do you have 12 volts at the back of the alternator.

What exact voltage are you reading at the alternator?

Here's some more pics, my multimeter isnt working and I dont have access to another one ATM.

I have the negative on the bellhop sing behind te starter per the FSM, is that not good enough?

It is good enough only if it is a low-resistance path to the battery post and for sure connects to the chassis; electrically, not just physically. The FSM assumes a perfect world sometimes.

Mike

I wrote a whole long post expanding on PastorMike's comments but the site ate it when I opened a picture. Bummer.

But I see in Post #10 that you're missing some fusible links. You need all of them, that might be the "current" source of your problem (that pun never gets old). And you can't just replace them with a piece of wire, you'll fry the rest of your harness. Put down the jumper wires, replace those links and use a test light or VOM for future testing.

Here's some more pics, my multimeter isnt working and I dont have access to another one ATM.

While in the absence of a VOM, attach two wires to headlight bulb, and use that as your tester. It will draw in excess of an Amp and verify current path. It is quick, hard to miss the indicator, and can check from positive post to chassis also.

It's like Zed Head says, no fusible links, game over.

Mike

you do realize that there is one set of fusible links not connected?. the other connections look questionable too. do yourself a favor and get a multimeter. a cheapo is under 10 bucks.

if the car has sat in a damp garage for a while i would check the fuse box inside the car too. those connectors probably need cleaning with a small brass brush or emery cloth

. New batt, new cables, new terminals, new EGI relay, new ignition control module, still no juice. . Lmk what you guys think please?

Thanks in advance

Thomas

Your post says you have new terminals, new cables, etc. However, in your pictures the terminals and cables do not look new at all. Are you sure you replaced them?

I wish I was standing in front of my car right now so I will have to go by memory----BUT, shouldn't the white wire on the starter be on the same lug as the positive cable?

Here's some more pics, my multimeter isnt working and I dont have access to another one ATM.

:tapemouth

Your post says you have new terminals, new cables, etc. However, in your pictures the terminals and cables do not look new at all. Are you sure you replaced them?

I wish I was standing in front of my car right now so I will have to go by memory----BUT, shouldn't the white wire on the starter be on the same lug as the positive cable?

You are correct. The white wire charges the battery through that connection. Many things wrong here, I can almost smell the burning wires...