Days and Days of searching, I need help please?!

[madkaw]

And supplies power to about everything

[Zed Head]

That's right, it "backfeed"s to the fusible links on the way to the alternator. I went and looked at mine and the white and the bat. pos. both connect to the outside lug.

So move that white wire over to the same lug the battery positive is on and you should have power back. Which may or may not be a good thing. Also, the missing link is one of the Ignition circuit links, I'm not sure what it powers, but probably something to do with the engine running.

madkaw solves a piece of the puzzle.

[rcb280z]

Ok, in post #10 I am confused. Fellow members help me out here. I don't want to confuse the owner any more than he already is but.....pic #4 shows an alternator different then what should be there. Look at it close. Top left hand side has an unused connector? It is different from mine. Could it possibly be the high output alt. Pics 5 & 8 show a relay that doesn't belong on the 77 model. It looks like a fuel pump relay from a 78 and newer (78-83). So why are the fusible links gone. Did you remove them or did the PO and why? Lot of strange looking things here.

[RyuZ32]

@HR369 - Yeah, the Fusible Link was missing cause it popped, I just hadnt fixed it when I took the pictures.

@dltalfa - The terminals are new(ish) replaced last year, just idiot people assisting my engine re-install like to lose things and buger them up.

@madkaw - I will be switching that wire tomm after work and hoping for a turn around on this.

@Zedhead - The fusible links I am getting the upgraded kit found here. - http://www.hammondsplains.com/s30upgrades/maxifuse/index.htm

@rcb280z - The wiring throws me off a lot on the alternator because everything i found picture wise via google looked 100% different, less plugs and all sorts of nifty stuff, i wish i knew what the PO did to the car all the way.

thank you guys for all of your help and I really appreciate it! I am hoping for a brighter day tomm. If i get it running and work out all of the bugs, my next tackle will be wiring in the factory stereo in that rats nest under the console. But one step at a time...baby steps thanks guys and keep the info flowing, ill report back tomm around 3pm EST with an answer.

[rcb280z]

Get everything working before you start changing things around. Maybe the PO wired in a high output alt. Google high output alternator for the z car and compare the wiring with what you have now. Maybe some more detailed pics of the harness will be helpful. Is there still a voltage regulator behind the fusible link boxes?

[lawr3nc3]

wow, you really poured it out...i need help wit a few things on my 78 so i hope i can get the same type of response. im glad i sighn up yesterday.....peace.

Okay- take a deep breath- Aahhhh

Onemore time now- deep breath, now exhale - good

Welcome to Classic Z car. We are always willing to help, but help us help you. Your first post is a lot of info crammed into one paragraph- too much actually .

Start from the beginning- " I just recently rebuilt my motor and have installed it and...

It does seem as if you have missed a very important item somewhere since you have no power anywhere in your car. Have you looked at a wiring schematic? Besides the actual battery cables there are some rather important wires that if not hooked up would kill everything.

Did you make any changes to any wiring?

Battery tested good?

Grounds very tight ?

Fusible links intact?

Dilithium crystals on impulse power?

All kidding aside, give us all info, pics you can and we can help you figure this out

[RyuZ32]

Got the wiring on the starter swapped and finally got lights and a reading on the volt gauge batts dead its on a charge right now and I'll be giving her the first start attempt here shortly

[Jeff G 78]

You do have a FSM, right? If not, download it from http://www.xenons30.com. You should ALWAYS refer to the wiring diagrams if you are having issues like this. On my race car, we struggled for a full day trying to diagnose why the car wasn't charging. After testing component after component, we finally chased down every single wire in the charging circuit and discovered that a teammate had removed a wire that he thought wasn't needed, but it was. It wasn't until we checked continuity on every single wire that we found the source. Both ends were accounted for, but he removed a chunk of the harness we weren't using. Once we ran a new wire, we were back in business. Unfortunately, it cost us a whole day of testing at the track, but at least we found it in time to hit the final practice before the race. :stupid:

[RyuZ32]

Jeff I feel your pain. Ok guys batt is charging and the starter is on its way, it will be here shortly and I'll be back at the garage soon to put it on and try again

[madkaw]

Glad to see you are charging. Hopefully nothing else got put back on backwards.

[RyuZ32]

Ok guys, Brand new starter, swapped the battery out of my 300zx and this is what it did. What am I missing?

I remember reading Zed I believe said that maybe the negative terminal isnt such a great idea on the starter/bellhousing.

What am I missing here guys?

[Zed Head]

Wasn't me on the negative terminal comment. The video seems to show that your wires are right but there's not enough juice at the starter to turn the engine over. Sounds like the solenoid is moving and completing the circuit but the starter's not spinning. Are you sure that the battery has a full charge? Could be bad connections at the battery also. If you just dropped the battery in and pushed on the terminal connections (quick and dirty), try cleaning the terminals and connections and bolting them down.

There's a reason the battery cable are so big, they should really be called starter cables since that's the main purpose for their size. Passing large quantities of current to the starter motor. After that they're overkill.

Edit - Of course, the negative terminal connection is important also. But the starter is a good spot for it since its main function is to ground the starter motor. Make sure it's clean and tight also.

And I see that you have the typical clamp-on wire end terminals. Make sure the exposed copper wire ends that the clamp fits on are clean also.

Edited May 19, 2012 by Zed Head