The relay in the pic was the seat belt one.

Ok after hours and hours of searching through wires I traced the wire that runs to te fuel pump. The black is obviously the ground and the green with blue stripe is the power... I traced it through the car, there's no breaks, no exposed wire, cleaned te bullet connector... It has no power ever. Put a wire on te bullet connection then ran it to a white with a black stripe that has power when key is on, and. One when key is off..pump ran great! It's insane. Everythin has power and works except the fuel pump, and now my buzzer doesn't work which is ok with me

Hard wired the pump. Firing like a trooper, getting fuel in the rail, not in the cylinders...ideas?

Hard wired the pump. Firing like a trooper, getting fuel in the rail, not in the cylinders...ideas?

Your post #1 said that the ECU was heating up - is it OK.. The ECU fires the injectors. The injectors are between the fuel rail and the cylinders. Check the ECU and all connections to it. Fuses again?

What if I hooked the return and from lines for fuel backwards...would I have this issue?

Fuel lines are correct. It's odd to have fuel in the rails and not the cylinders... Not enough pressure to open injectors or something? How do you manually open then up?

The ECU grounds the injector power when a signal from the coil negative post comes through the blue wire to Pin #1 on the ECU. Every third spark. That's when the injectors open. No Pin 1 connection to coil negative, no grounding, no fuel through the injectors. Tests are described in the Engine Fuel section of the FSM. They're fun.

Having the rail hooked up backward wouldn't cause the no-fuel issue, but it would cause other problems, like excess fuel pressure.

I believe this was covered already but I think you should also recheck all grounds particularly the EFI grounds.

Stupid question....does the ECU have to be grounded for it to work?

By grounded I mean bolted down in its place

Thomas,

We aren't neglecting your plight on purpose, but for me at least, it's getting difficult to track the problems when so many pathways have been travelled. Since you have probably learned SO much from this experience, it might be best to regroup and go back to the beginning and trace out the circuitry again. And, make no assumptions.

Also, is there a competent friend that you can ask for help; even if they don't have Z experience?

To answer your question: Whenever you have a DC circuit, you must have a return path for the current - in the case of the Z it is ground. Usually there is a ground wire on the connector of the ECU (not sure on your vintage). If not, the case would be ground and need to be bolted down (this would be a bad design flaw). The real reason for grounding the case is to reduce the electrical interference eminating from the circuitry within the ECU.

Mike

It has to be grounded, but does not need to be bolted down to run your tests....that's if Im understanding your question.

Edited June 14, 201212 yr by rcb280z

With the ECU bolted down, I put the jumper on the negative of the coil, slapping it on a ground repeatedly with the key on made no noises or clicks with the injectors, that was the test for the ECU. Since it did get super hot before I imagine its pretty cooked, so I'm going to order a new ECU on Tuesday unless someone has a 77 spare laying around for an auto that works