When I disassembled the oil pump, the gasket was essentially none-existent, a paper-like surface was stuck to both parts more-or-less like glue rather than gasket. It can not be removed by finger nail.

What should I do for reassembly? I am thinking that I leave the paper surface and use Aviation Form A Gasket?

I can cut a new paper gasket with an xacto but I wonder if it is worth stripping the old stuff as it is bonded so well? I will have to use a chemical gasket remover to kick start it.

You're talking about the gasket that sets the rotor end play?

So what happened with your original gasket? Did it split down the middle and leave half on each side, or is it a clean break with some kind of unusual material applied independently to each side? I wonder if this is a way for them to control the thickness?

When I replaced my oil pump both the original OEM and replacement gaskets were traditional style. I measured the new (Melling) gasket at .006 and the original Datsun gasket from my failed pump at .004 thick.

Thanks for the great photo.

Mine looks like it may have been glued to both surfaces with kryptonite. Even after a night's soak in varsol it would not budge. I just used aviation form-a-gasket and reassembled. It should be a good test of the stuff.

Mine looks like it may have been glued to both surfaces with kryptonite. Even after a night's soak in varsol it would not budge. I just used aviation form-a-gasket and reassembled. It should be a good test of the stuff.[/quote

Your pump end clearance must be worn for someone to omit the gasket.

Silly question I guess, but does the pump still rotate .?

Everything seems to work fine. I rotated it after reassembly with a screw driver.

Mine looks like it may have been glued to both surfaces with kryptonite.

Haha! So you must have felt all weak and light-headed while you were working on your pump?

I doubt that you want to pull it apart again, but in case you're energetic... I found the procedure in the FSM to be finicky, so I resorted to trying different thickness shims until I could calculate my endplay. I've got .002 when cold, and if I were doing it again (with a cast iron bodied pump), I would reduce that a little. My oil pressure is now great while cruising, but I could do with a little more pressure at idle.

Your pump spins with a screwdriver, so that means you don't have too little end play, but you might have too much. So is this a new pump you're putting in, or are you just giving your old one a once over?

Also, here's some interesting threads I turned up while doing my oil pump research:

http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/cast_iron_oil_pump_689487.msg1279920.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88729-truth-on-l6-oil-pumps

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/61680-kameari-high-performance-oil-pump-worth-it

Just primed the pump and gave the motor a lively 200rpm whirrrrrrr using the starter. Oil pressure gauge optimistically hit 20psi so good to go