Mudge,

I doubt that a new chain would need to have link taken out.

I've never heard of anyone needing to do this on an L series engine, but I could be mistaken?

Anyone else with an opinion on this?

Mike

I'd rather do that than spend a bundle raising the cam tower, thats all.

Mudge,

You don't shim cam towers just to take the slack out of the chain.

Cam geometry is very important and shimmimg back to factory height restores valve events back to where they should be.

Otherwise you will have valves opening & closing before they where meant to, duration may also be affected.

If you go down this road you may as well throw all the factory specs out the window as no measurements will apply.

Take some advice and shim the towers.

If you can't do it yourself then send it to a head shop, who will mill and shim for you.

o.k. just so i get this straight before hand, lets see if i understand what some of you guys are saying about removing the head. here's the proceedure i think you guys are recommending:

1) remove cover, intake and exhaust, drain coolant

2) bring the engine around to line up the 'shiny' link to top of head

3) old a piece of heater or similar hose and wedge it down between the two sides of the cam chain.

4) remove fuel pump and cam sprocket

5) pull head bolts and remove head

6) fix head and reassemble in reverse order.

how does that sound? especially step (3), am i on the same page now? at any point do need to actually remove the cam from the head?

while were at it, i was going to ask about radiators. the one that's in there is cracked in several places so i need to replace it. instead of going with a recore or reproduction, i thought i would look for a griffen or be cool that's really close. does anyone have an aluminum rad that fits with minimal modifications?

Sounds OK to me, can't help you with the radiator.

I dont know the hose diameters used, and this is where HybridZ comes in handy, but there is a 4.3L mini van radiator, all aluminum, that I will probably use.

HOWEVER, even 25 minute road course sessions, I didn't see heat a problem AT ALL, the temp hardly picked up any over normal driving, amazing. I use about 90% straight distilled water.

thanks guys

mudge, heat is always a problem for me. it is vegas afterall.

i put a two core griffin in my 'vette and it was still running 200-205* even in october:ermm:

Wow, I'd consider an electric pump, since it doesn't rely on engine speed to run quickly.