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What is best way to install motor and transmission with just 1 person.


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Chuck is right....

I've done the same by myself. Get the engine parts on, Heards, intake even the fan and drop it in.All u have to do is support the back of the motor at the right angle to get the tranny in. Once u get going its pretty quick.

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It's not that bad. The hardest part is getting the trans to align with the clutch so it'll slide in. Support the trans with a floor jack and muscle the trans into the clutch/engine. Most of your muscle is used lifting the trans...not forcing it into the clutch. I'm able to bench press the trans for a few seconds while I try to get it in and I'm not that strong.

Chuck

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This is a very timely thread..

I will be preplacing my L24/Type A four speed with a new L28/TypeB combo. Now I was originally thinking of mating the engine and tranny together out of the engine, then pull one engine/tranny combo out, and install one engine tranny combo back in.

However, I am now thinking of removing the transmission first, setting it aside, and then pull the engine second with the intake, carbs, and exhaust all at once.

Seems like it will be 6 in one hand/half a dozen in the other.

Either way I will document it all.

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That'd be great and much appreciated. I'll soon have all my ducks in a row and am going to take a few days off work (and turn my phone off) and put it all together. Harbor Freight has a leveler for $30 so I'm thinking basic motor on the stand then hoist it off, lower it to mount tranny then back up to working level and brace everything in place. Then put all the outside engine on and install with leveler. That's in my head so I'm anxious to see what others do.

Edited by siteunseen
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That is kind of my plan as well. I have an engine stand and an tilter coming in the mail right now.

By the way, how the hell can Harbor freight ship me an engine stand AND a tilter and only charge me 7 bucks shipping, and if I buy a DECAL from MSA it costs 9 dollars! I am a firm believer in getting what you pay for, I am not just a little bit scared of the quality of harbor Freight stuff.

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My Harbor Freight engine stand is the orange one and the welds look like crap but with a handfull of flat washers the block tightend right up and has held up very well. One thing I didn't realize until I saw a post with one, is where the pipe sticks through the back it has about 4 or 6 holes, stick a 3/8" 12" extension through one and you've got a way to rotate your motor without touching the block and another thing was to tie that holding pin onto the stand or you'll be looking for it constantly.

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That is kind of my plan as well. I have an engine stand and an tilter coming in the mail right now.

By the way, how the hell can Harbor freight ship me an engine stand AND a tilter and only charge me 7 bucks shipping, and if I buy a DECAL from MSA it costs 9 dollars! I am a firm believer in getting what you pay for, I am not just a little bit scared of the quality of harbor Freight stuff.

I've got 5 of their engine stands and an engine hoist.....no problems.

Edited by Diseazd
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I have used lots of stands and hoists and the HF stand should be fine as long as you keep it stable. The L6 is very long and heavy and the stand can tip if you are not careful. Their hoist is fine, but the reach is too short for a Z. I always remove the engine and trans as a unit and the HF hoist boom is about a foot too short. I remove the front bumper which helps, but it is still a few inches too short. I used a "Goodyear" brand hoist from one of the chain auto parts stores and it was much better, but I still removed the bumper to get the hook directly over the CG point.

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