Front End Refresh - oh oh

[cbuczesk]

I'll third that!

Ar eyou removing the ball/socket TC kit? If so, I'd be interested buying it. I have that setup on my race car and wouldn't mind having a better set.

Chuck

[Zedyone_kenobi]

No I am installing the ball/socket set. I am removing the hardened poly bushings on both sides of the TC rod.

[cbuczesk]

Keep an eye on the plastic part. It seems to break easily. :-(

Chuck

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Great! If it breaks, then techno tuning will be getting a call. But for now, I am going to keep the faith.

[cbuczesk]

I think I have 4 damaged/broken ones at home. They must wear very quickly. Keep in mind that mine were used on a race car. They were used hard but not often. I really think that something like that should last a long time. I'll try to post some pictures tonight. I'm not sure that I'd want them on my street car.

About the bump steer spacers... I just put them on my race car. It's lowered to about 5.25" from the ground to the bottom of the rocker not to the pinch weld. The other guys racing Zs use them. I'm racing this weekend and will let you know if they made a difference.

Chuck

[Marty Rogan]

Okay guys, I am nearing the point where I want to start putting my Z back together, and while cleaning off the steering knuckles I thought to myself, 2 things.

1) Now would be a really crazy ideal time to install the quick steering knuckles

and

2) Since I am running 15" wheels, and MSA sells bump steer spacers that are suppose to correct for this 'misalignment' due to lowered cars, (tokiko springs and struts), are they really necessary?

Has anybody else used either of these products?

My yellow track car had the quick steering knuckles, and they made a big difference. I liked them a lot. The car was maybe an inch or so lowered and I did not use the bump steer spacers. I did not notice any ill effects from that.

As far as the poly bushings for the TC rod, I would recommend what I did. Put a polly bushing in the front to retain stiffness. Put a stock rubber bushing on the back side of the TC Rod where the hex nut goes on. This will also help to prevent the TC Rod from breaking, as has been reported when using the polly bushings at both ends.

Marty

[Mike W]

Chuck,

I have a brand new ball / socket setup for the TC rods that I am not going to use and would be willing to let it go. I opted for the TTT adjustable rods instead so this is no longer needed. Still in the bag.

PM me if you are interested and I'm sure we can work something out.

Mike.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Chuck I got your parts, Thanks very much, they look splendid! You are a great man sir. My Z thanks you!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I started to get parts bolted back up, but had a miserable time of it.

The two bolts that hold the ball joint onto the transverse link require 35 to 45 ft lbs. Well at exactly 40 one snapped off and the other was just about to.

Then the washer that goes to the bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the shock body cracked in half.

Man these parts after being compressed for so many years, are so darn brittle! I will replace anything M8 and below from now on with new cad plated hardware. All my cleaning and polishing bolts was futile, as now I am going to replace everything.

crack on me once, shame on you

crack on me twice, shame on me!

I did manage to get my transverse link installed and torqued to 90 ft lbs though. The poly bushings sure look better in there than the worn out stockers.

Edited June 7, 2012 by Zedyone_kenobi

[tlorber]

You may want to check those torque settings. If it's the bolts I'm thinking of, my Haynes manual said 40 # which was way too much. I stretched the bolts and had to replace them. I retorqued to 15# I think.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Well I hear ya, but if the manual says 40 lbs, why should I second guess it? 40 did rip it right off. I will shoot for 35 this evening when I get some more hardened bolts built in the last 30 years.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE

I am half way done. I managed to get the bolts tightened to 35 ft lbs on the ball joint, which is the lower amount called out in the FSM. I then removed it and compared the length and no permanent set had occurred. Threads looked clean. So I left it at 35 and smiled and walked away. I plan to have the car rolling again by this weekend. Is there a desired amount of toe in/castor, I should have the alignment shop dial in. Camber is pretty much fixed.