June 14, 201212 yr Author comment_393090 Good Luck Jon,I just finished this EXACT project. My advice is clean all the threads thoroughly, and REPLACE the bolts that hold on the ball joints. The torque spec on this is 35 - 45 ft lbs if I read my FSM right. I snapped off two of my bolts. I went out and bought some new zinc plated bolts that were grade 8 or better. Also, do not forget to grease the ball joints and tie rod ends. If you get into any binds please just ask. Also make sure your transverse links are in good shape. One of mine was slightly bent.Thanks Stephen, your thread was actually my motivation for finally doing this. It got me to take a good look at the bushings and I'm really glad I did. I'll be sure to replace those bolts you mentioned. My transverse links appear to be good and straight, I haven't actually taken them off because I've got the T/C upgrade kit on there already, with the boot stretched around the front washer...Still working on getting the ball joints and a tie rod out of the steering knuckles. These things are SEIZED! I'm pissed I left my PBlaster and pickle fork at home. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43396-suspension-refresh-1970/?&page=2#findComment-393090 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 15, 201212 yr comment_393101 Good Luck Jon,....... My advice is clean all the threads .... If you want to go one better, buy a metric die and tap set and go crazy...you will wonder why you waited so long to take it to the "next level". Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43396-suspension-refresh-1970/?&page=2#findComment-393101 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 15, 201212 yr comment_393102 When reassembling the front end, put everything together very loose then torque to spec. in a logical and balanced fashion. The loose parts allow you to easily fasten all hardware. For example: If you tighten the t/c rod to chassis to spec. before attaching the other end to the control arm, well...have fun. To again take it to the next level, paint mark your torqued hardware as you finish each bolt/nut. This will allow you to check for loosening in the future. Edited June 15, 201212 yr by Blue Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43396-suspension-refresh-1970/?&page=2#findComment-393102 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 18, 201212 yr comment_393368 Agree with the rethreader/thread straightener kit. I actually ponied up for a good MATCO one. I chase every nut or bolt from M4 to M10 before I ever reassemble. It makes it so much easier to put together AND it helps ensure proper torque. Great advice as usual Blue! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43396-suspension-refresh-1970/?&page=2#findComment-393368 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 28, 201212 yr Author comment_394265 This has taken longer than I would've liked, but you know how these things go. Life gets in the way. Got everything apart, and bead blasted the knuckles and sway bar brackets. Sand blasted the control arms last night and pressed the bushings out today (15/16" socket fit perfectly!). I'll sand blast the sway bar tomorrow. And hopefully I'll be able to POR these before I leave for the weekend. Oh, and I'm a dumbass and ordered rear bushings instead of front bushings... :stupid: Edited June 28, 201212 yr by JonnyRock Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43396-suspension-refresh-1970/?&page=2#findComment-394265 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 28, 201212 yr comment_394272 Nice photos! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43396-suspension-refresh-1970/?&page=2#findComment-394272 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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